DALLAS — A continued slide in tailored clothing sales prompted retailers at the Men’s Show Dallas Collective to focus on sportswear epitomized by colorfully striped shirts, bright polos, shorts and denim.
Buyers said business overall remains challenging as they slashed budgets 20 to 50 percent, figuring they can always obtain goods if sales pick up. The three-day show, which ended Aug. 18 at the World Trade Center here, featured more than 250 lines.
“This boutique show remains strong and vital to the marketplace,” said Bill Winsor, president and chief executive officer of Dallas Market Center. “We continue to deliver a quality buying environment for the top men’s wear stores in the region during this order-writing show.”
The DMC is considering moving the men’s wear showrooms from the seventh floor of the World Trade Center up to the 14th floor with permanent women’s fashion showrooms, which occupy floors 13 to 15. Some contemporary men’s resources are already represented in showrooms on the 15th floor, including AG Jeans, Monarchy Collection, Rock Revival and Smet.
“We are looking at it but would not offer a consolidation unless the industry was in favor of it,” said Robbin Wells, executive vice president of leasing.
As for traffic, sales representative Greg Burns said: “We saw the same 50 [stores] we always work with. Everyone is worried and crying, but we’re doing just fine.”
Burns represents Kroon colorful washed sport jackets, which opened eight new accounts, according to Brent Kestin, designer.
Larry Bryson, men’s buyer for J.E. Neilson Co. in Oxford, Miss., said he is again cutting back on tailored clothing despite his clientele of attorneys, doctors and University of Mississippi staff. Founded in 1839, J.E. Neilson is one of the oldest department stores in the world.
“It’s much more dressed down,” Bryson observed. “They rarely wear suits, coats or sport jackets, and the only time attorneys wear a suit is in court. We are looking for new and exciting ways to keep it lively.”
Bryson cited colorful striped shirts by Thomas Dean and Polo Ralph Lauren knit tops in solid colors, from basic blue and red to greens, orange and pink paired with shorts in neutral hues.
The customer is “price-point driven,” said Luke Abney, co-owner of The Rogue Ltd. men’s shop and Forty Four Fifty women’s boutique in Jackson, Miss. “The men’s business is definitely worse than women’s,” he added.
Abney sought fashion pieces and unique items retailing under $100 for fall.
“Peter Millar had very good wovens and patterns, and Thomas Dean sport shirts are the best value in the market,” he said. “Sutter’s jeans retail for $68 — we put them with a great shirt and a pair of Hush Puppies.”
Business is “actually OK” at John Ryan’s Clothing, a two-year-old upscale sportswear shop in Lakeway, Tex., near Austin, said owner John Silvos.
Silvos focused on shirts retailing for up to $200 as well as T-shirts, polos, shorts, swimwear and leather jackets. He planned to buy more heavily from fewer, best-selling resources, including Bugatchi, Nat Nast Luxury Originals, Tori Richards Ltd. and Coppley Apparel.
“Austin is beyond casual,” Silvos said. “You have a nice T-shirt and shorts and you’re ready to go to the opera. But they want nice casual, and not what everyone else has.”
Breaking News: @louisvuitton's men's artistic director @mrkimjones is leaving the French fashion house after nearly 7 years. Jones joined Louis Vuitton in 2011, following a three year tenure as creative director of British luxury goods brand Alfred Dunhill. Jones is to exit Louis Vuitton after showing his fall 2018 collection for the brand in Paris on Thursday. Read the full exclusive story on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews