CANNES, France — There was a notable uptick in the number of beauty brands exhibiting for the first time at the Tax Free World Association annual meeting that ran Oct. 21 to 26 here.
Yves Rocher was among those making a debut appearance.
“The idea now is to try to enter airports because of the growth of traffic,” explained Henri-Bernard Bedoin, zone director of Eastern Europe, CIS and French overseas territories for the company, who said Yves Rocher already has 2,000 shops in nearly 90 countries’ domestic markets and a sprinkling of recent airport stores, such as in Budapest and Bratislava, Slovakia.
Bedoin explained a point of difference the brand has is that it’s more affordable than many other beauty labels sold in travel-retail stores. At the show, he was highlighting products but also specific merchandising units that may be adapted according to travel-retail locations. RELATED STORY: Travel Retail as Brand-Building Environment >>
It was also the first time AmorePacific had a stand at TFWA, too. Today, the Korean company primarily sells its Laneige and Sulwhasoo brands in travel retail in Asia.
“We have a plan to move on to the Middle East market and also [markets] like Guam, Hawaii and so on. In the long-term plan is Europe, as well,” explained Sung Hoon Kim, assistant manager on AmorePacific’s international travel retail team, who added the goal is not to penetrate the channel quickly. “We’re quite focused on the Asian market first. The biggest one is, of course, China.”
At By Terry’s stand, the brand’s five fragrances, whose launch began in September in Europe, was generating particular interest, according to Sophie Galan, the company’s coordinator for Europe.
“The activity is growing a lot. It’s now a three-axis brand, with makeup, skin care and perfume,” she continued. “We’re growing in Asia, America and Africa. Now, we are growing in a very international dimension, and for us the tax-free [show] is a good moment for us to meet all of our clients and [perspective clients]. We are only in domestic markets for the moment, and we want to develop in the travel-retail network. So that is why we are here this year.”
“We think it’s a great opportunity for us to present our brand,” continued Laure Ampe, export manager for the Polaar skin care label, which was also looking to enter the travel-retail market for the first time.
Meanwhile, Elizabeth Arden — no stranger to the channel — was formally exhibiting again at TFWA after a long absence in that capacity (although the company has been present at the event for years running).
“We are in a re-branding year for the company,” explained Paola Pinto, regional marketing director of travel retail and distributors for Elizabeth Arden, who reiterated that the strategy encompasses everything from packaging to advertising. “It’s a 360-degree change in terms of all touch points.”
She added, “There’s a lot of news to the trade in terms of where we are as a company and our growth expectations, our key innovations.”
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)