The Reaction Here and Abroad: Good Moves for Both Sides
NEW YORK -- While executives at designer firms here and in Europe expressed surprise at Dawn Mello's appointment at Bergdorf Goodman, they said they were elated to hear of her return, citing her strong fashion sense, taste and commitment to designers....
NEW YORK -- While executives at designer firms here and in Europe expressed surprise at Dawn Mello's appointment at Bergdorf Goodman, they said they were elated to hear of her return, citing her strong fashion sense, taste and commitment to designers. They were also thrilled, if not surprised, that Burton Tansky would move to the top post at Neiman Marcus.
Following is a spot check of key sources in New York, Paris and Milan on Thursday's big announcement:
Calvin Klein: The Neiman's and Bergdorf moves are "real genius on Bob Tarr's part." He said, "It's the perfect combination. Burt Tansky heading up the whole Neiman Marcus organization is a natural.
"It's a legend, what Dawn Mello has done for Bergdorf Goodman. I know I can speak for myself and Donna Karan, how much we've missed her. To be running that store with Steve Elkin -- it's the perfect balance."
Neiman's, Klein noted, is "my number-one account in Collections."
"The Neiman's foundation is there and there are so many opportunities for growth within Neiman's that Burt will recognize. No one is better suited for this position."
Klein said that when Mello was previously at Bergdorf's, she took what was an old carriage trade store and made it modern.
"It's the leading fashion store in the U.S., if not the world. That was her doing. She bought the newest designers in every category, first, and made it the store where everyone wants to shop. I credit her with a lot of the success that I've had."
Steve Ruzow, president, The Donna Karan Cos.: "Obviously, we are all excited because Dawn was very instrumental in introducing Donna in 1985. She's been very supportive of Donna, but we also believe she's a great arbiter of fashion. We think this will be fantastic for Bergdorf's."
As for Tansky, Ruzow said, "It's obvious he has all the talents to take Neiman's into the future. I think this is a brilliant move for [Harcourt General], for Neiman's and for Bergdorf's."
Arie Kopelman, president and chief operating officer of Chanel: "Tansky was an obvious choice. I don't think it's any surprise, although I can't really picture him in a 10-gallon hat. But I think he'll do a fabulous job."Accessories designer Judith Leiber: "I'm very fond of Burt Tansky, and we've been friends for a long time. And Neiman's, which we've been selling for more than 30 years, is one of our prize accounts.
"I think Dawn is wonderfully fashion-conscious and brilliant. And Steve Elkin is wonderful with numbers."
Emanuel Ungaro: "His appointment is no real surprise, but I'm delighted for Burt Tansky, with whom I've always had a great rapport. Neiman Marcus has always been one of our best customers and I look forward to working with Burt there.
"Dawn Mello has fantastic experience. She really knows what fashion is all about. Her career path is also pretty unique, because her time at Gucci means she has worked both sides of the barrier."
Gianfranco Ferre: "I'm so pleased. She [Mello] has that certain kind of natural finesse that Bergdorf Goodman needs right now. And she knows the story of fashion."
Giancarlo Giammetti, ceo of Valentino: "It's good news for everyone -- especially her. This job is more her style [than Gucci]. And I'll like working with her again."
Didier Grumbach, president of Thierry Mugler: "I think its fantastic, fabulous news. The choice of Dawn Mello for Bergdorf's couldn't be better. I only wonder why she ever went to Gucci."
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast