PARIS — Corporate social responsibility is fashion’s focus more than ever.
Amid discussions of business conditions and trends, the talk of the recent round of textile and sourcing shows here centered on sustainability, as well as where goods are manufactured. Première Vision and fabric sustainability consultancy C.L.A.S.S. cohosted a seminar with speakers including Rossella Ravagli, Gucci’s head of corporate social responsibility, and Max Mara fashion director Laura Lusuardi, while at Texworld, some of the busiest stands were those offering eco-friendly fabrics.
At PV, Italian printing mill Miroglio Textile was appealing to major players with its eco-credentials that include reducing its water footprint and introducing environmentally friendly printing techniques.
“In the past two years, we have reduced our water consumption by more than half, from 800 million liters in 2011 to 350 million today,” said global commercial director Chiaretto Calo. “Big players like H&M, with whom we are in discussions, are very sensitive to this. They have started a program to reduce their water consumption and are looking for suppliers to help them achieve this.
“We desperately need the drive of big retailers” to help develop cost-effective alternatives, including environmentally sound inks, recycled polyesters and plasma technology, Calo added.
“I see a very good trend,” said Mozart Tseng, president of Mozartex, China’s largest supplier of fabric made from Lenzing’s Tencel fiber, showing at Texworld. “Twenty years ago, when one meter of Tencel cost $12, no one would buy. Now it’s one-third of the price,” adding that the financial crises have helped raise awareness for doing business responsibly. “Now I sell one million meters to H&M. Before 2010, it was zero.”
Miroglio’s Calo said one of the reasons for the company’s digital output surpassing that of rotary printing for the first time this year was that costs have come down, making more-sustainable options economically viable.
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)