Datacolor800 + MatchTEXTILE software. Photo courtesy of Datacolor
Emerging and improved textile design solutions have enabled brands and manufacturers to tighten the grip on their supply chains. With recent advances in textile software, printing and color formulation, in-house textile design significantly reduces lead times, streamlines design processes and caters to sustainability.Textile design software solutions have made remarkable strides. One of industry's oldest textile design platforms hails from French software and manufacturing technology firm Lectra, whose Kaledo textile design suite was first introduced in the Eighties. Its interface features live textile simulations that allow users to create technical sketches digitally by hand or upload handmade paintings and drawings. The platform reduces lead times for brands by allowing designers to easily interact with various parts of the supply chain on one platform.Daniella Ambrogi, the vice president of marketing at Lectra, told WWD, "Lectra’s design solutions integrate fashion expertise and design best practices to create innovative fabric designs and styles, in record time. Kaledo allows designers to share sketches and textile designs with product development and suppliers on a unique platform, to make certain that products reach fashion-hungry consumers on time." Ambrogi continued, “Kaledo’s print designs do not require designers to create separate files from the original to do color ways. In fact, it automatically creates color palette data, which generates production-ready files, minimizing time spent templating for production. Kaledo also has the ability to easily send screen separations, reducing re-works for vendors. And with digital integration and collaboration in mind, Kaledo is fully AI integrated so that merchandisers, textile designers, product designers and the supply chain can communicate at every stage of production in real time.”Advances in color development software have also contributed to speeding up time-to-market design processes. Datacolor, a color management solution firm, supports apparel and textile companies in color development, measurement and quality control. The company provides an extensive selection of software, hardware and services for end-end color control, formulation, communication and specification. Via its formulation solution, Match Textile, users can quickly locate accurate color matches with low-cost dye recipes. The software helps brands meet client demands for quality and productivity, as well as shorten lead times.[caption id="attachment_10988470" align="aligncenter" width="396"] A print that was done on a slub-based fabric. Photograph courtesy of Trusty Trading.[/caption]Its solution is differentiated in the market for its expediency and supply chain integration, which gratifies a hard-to-please consumer base. Dustin Bowersox, the marketing manager for textiles and apparel at Datacolor, told WWD, "Consumers are more trend-savvy than ever. Social media has given them exposure to trends [and] influencers instantaneously. Thus the consumer has an expectation that trends be available for purchase immediately. This has placed pressure on brands to deliver fast fashion more quickly by shortening the product development calendars in order to meet the consumer demand." Bowersox continued, "With the right technology and procedures in place, costly sampling processes (lab dipping, strikeoffs) can be streamlined and in some cases eliminated completely, objective color quality decision can be made at point of manufacture and eliminates the need to ship physical samples to brands for approval. Datacolor works closely with our textile customers [and] partners to continuously enhance our solution to increase efficiency, reduce waste and improve sustainability. "
Specially formulated dyes have also piqued the interest of brands adopting sustainability throughout the supply chain. Trusty Trading, a vertical manufacturer that develops and distributes technical textiles and apparel fabrics, recently launched a new collection of non-chemical dye color groups. Its "vegetal" dyes, created from plant material, yield impressive color fastness and feature anti-microbial functions in the cotton fibers. As part of a collaboration with Archroma, a Swiss color and specialty chemical company, the collection also debuted its "Denim" print, an indigo-look wash effect that can be printed on denim, woven and knit fabrications.
And printing technologies from companies such as Kornit Digital, a printing solution firm for the apparel, garment and textile industry, cater to the rise of domestic textile printing. Wayne Colbath, business development manager for the southeast region, told WWD, “Kornit Allegro allows manufacturers to keep up with fast fashion by being able to take a digital file and print short to long runs as quickly and as easily as possible.” Colbath added, “You can easily manipulate the files and do mass customization, personalization and data drops on a multitude of fabrics from many different cottons, polyester, Lycra, all on one machine.”For More Textile News From WWD, See:
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)