MILAN — For his first Emilio Pucci outing, Peter Dundas channeled all aspects of Pucci — everything from the house’s well-stocked archives to the Renaissance Palazzo Pucci in Florence, where the company is headquartered.
“I was very impressed by the contrast between the modernity of the prints and the antiquity of the palace, which conjured images of young, rebellious aristocrats with a carefree style. But I also added a Baroque and rock ’n’ roll vibe,” said Dundas, describing his first collection for Pucci, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. The collection will be shown here Saturday.
This story first appeared in the February 26, 2009 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
In terms of archival material, Dundas was particularly impressed with the modernity of Pucci’s swirls from the Fifties, which he personalized with a vintage patina obtained via special treatments and fuzzy colors.
Other variations on iconic motifs include dresses made with slivers of colored Plexiglas stitched together or patchworks, cutouts, slits, beadings and embroidery that evoke the prints.
The Norwegian designer, who shuttles between Paris, where he lives, and Florence, also harkened back to Pucci’s early days when its founder, Emilio, made headlines with skiwear, tunics and Capri pants.
Dundas’ idea of sporty chic translated into a flurry of zipped and tapered cargo pants or aged deerskin styles, bias-cut cashmere printed T-shirts and shorts.
On a more feminine note, he crafted short and body-conscious dresses, either draped from silk jersey, or cut with puffer sleeves and leather and Swarovski applications down the front. His choice of materials included cashmere, silk jersey, cotton canvas, double-faced wool and washed silk crepe in a palette of khaki, azure, yellow, white and black and dull metallics.