BLURRED LINES: Missoni has a new flagship on Rue Saint-Honoré. Spanning more than 3,200 square feet over two floors, the boutique was developed jointly by Angela Missoni and Spanish architect Patricia Urquiola and sells women’s, men’s and girls’ ready-to-wear, accessories and homewares.
It has two entrances — one on Rue Saint-Honoré, the other on Rue d’Alger — and features materials such as wood, Alicrite, copper-colored metal and fabric. The walls and ceilings are a collage of the Italian luxury brand’s trademark stripes and zigzags, in predominantly green and blue shades. “I have always wanted our boutiques in every city to have a different interpretation,” said Missoni, noting that elements such as the soft lines of the staircase and the parquet floor were inspired by classic French palaces and gardens.
— JOELLE DIDERICH
219 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001
NEXT: LA PRAIRIE >>
TONY TREATMENT: La Prairie has just debuted its first freestanding store in Europe, just a hop from Paris’ Palais Royal and Place Vendôme.
Here, the ground floor is devoted to products, while one level down houses two treatment rooms. A third is on the second floor, boasting natural light. The spa menu in the 2,330-square-foot location is diverse, with options such as a firming facial, called Soin Caviar Liftant Ultime, which lasts for 90 minutes and is priced at 200 euros, or $224.60 at current exchange. There’s also a facial focused on radiance, the Soin Radiance Or Pur Ultime, which runs an hour and a half and costs 190 euros, or $213.40. Among the three offers exclusive to the spa is a 90-minute, personalized face-and-body treatment, which goes for 300 euros, or $336.90.
— JENNIFER WEIL
199 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001
Open Monday to Saturday, from 10:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.
NEXT: ALICE ARCHER FOR BROWNS >>
ARCHER TRIUMPH: London retailer Browns is putting its financial and commercial muscle behind the young designer and embroidery whiz Alice Archer, who will be showing her demi-couture collection at Paris’ Le Burgundy hotel from Jan. 27 to 31.
A former embroidery designer for Dries Van Noten, who has also worked with Nicholas Kirkwood and Tracey Emin, Archer’s designs combine print and embroidery for trompe l’oeil and 3-D effects. Archer, who also designs the computer programs for her embroidery machines, works with ceramic and synthetic thread and uses heat techniques to create her clothes, with images that are inspired by works of art and the natural world. Alice Archer for Browns will launch with nine handmade pieces, including kimonos, dresses, coats and skirts with an average retail price of about $3,500. The collection will return to Paris — with more items — during the ready-to-wear collections in March. The collection is made in Italy, at the same factories that embroider for the big couture houses.
Simon Burstein, chief executive officer of Browns, discovered Archer’s work at a trade show in London and said he immediately felt she had something different to offer. “There’s a modernity to it all, and a craftsmanship you can only wish for. These are the sort of pieces that will stay in people’s wardrobes forever — and they’re almost impossible to copy,” he said, adding that while Browns has collaborated with young talent before, this is its biggest partnership by far.
In addition to backing Archer’s business, Browns has also set up a studio for her on the premises of the London store. Burstein said Browns’ commitment to Archer is long-term. “It’s not a one-shot deal. She’s super talented, and she is going to go a long way,” he said.
— SAMANTHA CONTI
UNDER THE HAMMER: Mouna Ayoub is going for an early spring-cleaning.
Less than a year after an auction of items from her beloved yacht, Phocea, the couture collector, jet-setter and philanthropist is taking another stab at her closet. Ayoub is slated to auction off more than 3,000 items, including 40 haute couture looks, rtw, shoes, furs and accessories, during a four-day period starting Jan. 30, at the Cornette de Saint Cyr auction house in Paris.
The 2,000 lots — which are estimated at between 50 euros, or $58 at current exchange, and 30,000 euros, or $34,647 — are said to span three decades. Among the standouts is a crisp haute couture ensemble created by Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel in 1995, made of a white, pearl-embroidered jacket and black tulle skirt, as well as an undated gown by John Galliano, featuring romantic flower embroideries and a matching shawl.
Part of the proceeds are expected to go to charity: 100,000 euros, or $115,491, to the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in support of the upcoming “Déboutonnez la mode” (“Unbuttoning Fashion”) exhibition to open on Feb. 9, and 100,000 euros to the Cinéfondation, which helps new filmmaking talent.
Fans can view the collection from Jan. 24 to Jan. 29 at the auction house.
— PAULINA SZMYDKE
Cornette de Saint Cyr
6 Avenue Hoche
Tel: +33 1 47 27 11 24
NEXT: RALPH & RUSSO >>
WONDER YEARS: Over the past 12 months Tamara Ralph and Michael Russo have been ruling the red carpet — and even the pink and gold one at Buckingham Palace — with designs worn by the likes of Angelina Jolie, Beyoncé and Eva Longoria. Yet, for the couture label Ralph & Russo, which will stage its third on-schedule show in Paris on Jan. 29, it’s only the beginning.
Last month, the brand moved into a new, bigger space at Harrods, and hangs alongside brands such as Dior, Chanel, Prada, Gucci and Fendi. And last summer it received minority investment from John Caudwell, the British businessman and philanthropist who made his fortune with mobile phones. Ralph & Russo now designs handbags and shoes — and produces them in-house — and is aiming to open stand-alone boutiques in the U.S. and Hong Kong later this year.
The brand, founded in 2007 and known for designs ranging from the lavishly embellished to the spare and demure, caught many an eye last year when it became the first British couture house in more than a century to be invited by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture to show. Ralph, who is the designer, and Russo, who oversees the commercial side of the business, remain the only Australians ever to be invited by the Chambre.
Marquee names are increasingly turning to the duo, who are partners in life and work, for a variety of important occasions: Jolie wore a dove-gray suit when she received her honorary damehood from Queen Elizabeth II last October, while last month the Chinese actress Fan Bingbing wore a pale pink jacket and flared skirt at the press conference for her latest film “Ever Since We Love.”
Ralph, who comes from a family of couturiers and who started designing and selling dresses in Australia when she was 12 years old, and Russo, whose background is in building businesses from zero, are reaching higher. “We want to be the next major luxury house,” said Russo. “We’ve set our bars really high and there are a lot of big plans that we have in mind. Every day we get closer, every day there’s something new that we’re launching or something exciting happening.”
ROOM WITH A VIEW: One of 2015’s most hotly anticipated openings, alongside the Hôtel de Crillon and Ritz, both slated to reopen later in the year, La Réserve Paris hotel and spa welcomed its first guests on Jan. 19.
Opposite the Grand Palais and near the Elysée gardens and the American Embassy, La Réserve (“The Reserve”) is tucked into the wooded area of Avenue Gabriel. The building, a classical 19th-century private mansion, had famous owners, including the Duke of Morny and, most recently, Pierre Cardin. La Réserve’s owner, Michel Reybier, bought what used to house Maxim’s residence from Cardin for an undisclosed sum. “We call it an urban mansion,” said Annabelle Gamelin, director of sales and marketing of La Réserve Paris. In lieu of a reception area, there is the Louis XV salon with antique furniture and fireplace. Check-in is done in the room for a more personalized and intimate experience.
Decorator Jacques Garcia used luxurious materials such as cordovan leather, herringbone oak parquet, Zimbabwe granite and Carrara marble for the 24 suites and 14 rooms, as well as common areas, including the library, cigar room and 16-meter (or 52-foot) indoor pool, which is only open to guests. A total of 19,685 feet of fabrics, including silk, damascene brocade, taffeta and velvet, were used for the curtains and hangings.
Laurent Banctel, who trained alongside Alain Senderens at Lucas Carton and also worked at the Crillon, is manning the kitchen of Le Gabriel, La Réserve’s restaurant facing Le Laurent, a well-known Parisian power restaurant at which ceos and politicians are regulars.
Prices start at 750 euros, or $872 at current exchange, for a 430-square-foot deluxe room, while a night in the 2,690-square-foot Grand Palais suite costs 13,500 euros, or $15,670. This is one luxurious lodging for a very civilized safari.
— LAURE GUILBAULT
La Réserve Paris
42 Avenue Gabriel, 75008
Restaurant open daily, from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m.
NEXT: ALL EARS AT THE PHILHARMONIE >>
ALL EARS: Paris has never sounded as sweet as with its new international music hall, the Philharmonie.
French architect Jean Nouvel built the monumental concrete structure covered with a few hundred thousand aluminum birds and boasting an accessible roof overlooking the Parc de la Villette. The creation is considered a flagship project of the city’s Grand Paris expansion plan.
The new home of Paris’ orchestra will host a rich program spanning a wide range of genres — not only classical music but also contemporary, world and electro-pop. Fauré and Ravel were among the composers played at the inauguration in mid-January of the much-awaited building (that’s still considered unfinished by some).
The Philharmonie is also a fashion-show venue, as Kenzo presented its most recent men’s collection there. And next up, the space will welcome the globe-trotting David Bowie exhibition starting in March.
— ANNE-AYMONE GHEERBRANT
Philharmonie de Paris
221 Avenue Jean Jaurès, 75019
Open Tuesday to Friday, from 12 p.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday to Sunday, from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
NEXT: FRAGRANCE FOCUS >>
FRAGRANCE FOCUS: Kilian Hennessy recently opened his first Paris flagship. Located on the city’s Right Bank, the 670-square-foot, black-and-white bijou boutique sells his By Kilian brand’s entire range, plus a perfume exclusive for France. It has a bespoke service, too, as well as a wide range of the label’s evening clutches.
— JENNIFER WEIL
20 Rue Cambon, 75001
Open Monday to Saturday, from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.
NEXT: CUISINE MASH-UP >>
CUISINE MASH-UP: After supplying American-style fare — bagels, apple pie, muffins, burger buns and cheesecake — to hip Paris eateries such as The Broken Arm, NoMa and Molitor, Ohio native Rachel Moeller, Maria Methodieva and Birke Moeller have finally opened their own full-fledged restaurant, Rachel’s, on Rue du Pont aux Choux in the Marais. Here, locals and foreigners line up on weekends for a late brunch.
Parisian decorator Dorothée Meilichzon (who did Experimental Cocktail Club in New York, plus Beef Club and Café Pinson in Paris) designed the new space. It has the feel of a modern diner with its marble countertop, bar stools covered with soft-hued fabrics, chalkboard menu, tiled floor and wall-to-wall shelving lined with cookbooks from the likes of Thomas Keller.
Homemade dishes come in generous portions and are made with seasonal ingredients. The recent menu included Texan-style black angus, wagyu short ribs with chipotle and cheddar, mashed potatoes and pickled zucchini, priced at 27 euros, or $31 at current exchange. There was also “quinoa salad with roasted vegetables, goat cheese and ginger-balsamic dressing” at 17.50 euros, or $20. The trio’s famous sweets are priced between 8.50 and 9.50 euros, or $9.80 and $11. Reservations are possible for dinner, and until 12:30 p.m. for lunch.
A stone’s throw from Rachel’s is Les Chouettes, in the former space of Café Rouge facing Carreau du Temple. Decorated by Catalan architect Lázaro Rosa-Violán, the three-floor space has a cozy feel for a brisk winter day with its faux fireplace. The first floor houses the restaurant dedicated to dinner, while the top floor is designed for post-meal cocktails. Chef Alban Drevet, who previously worked at Paris institutions Le Laurent and Ledoyen, serves French cuisine.
For lunch, the menu is 23 euros, or $26.50 and includes two dishes (a starter and entrée or an entrée and dessert), such as the cod with risotto and ginger and duckling filet with butternut and pistachio. The dessert menu includes a Paris Brest or a carrot-cream-cheese dessert with cilantro ice cream.
To dine in Paris’ Golden Triangle, there is Tong Yen, a chic Chinese restaurant a short distance from the Elysée Palace. In 1965, at 20, Thérèse Luong inherited the restaurant from her father, and she soon established it as a culinary destination. In the Seventies, Kenzo Takada, Yves Saint Laurent and Emanuel Ungaro flocked here. She recently sold it to Romain Costa, president of the Black Code Group, who already owns the Japanese eatery Kinugawa. French decorating team Gilles & Boissier designed the interior of Tong Yen, where walls are made of onyx and each alcove is illuminated by a suspended wall lamp.
Chef Hiroaki Arishima, previously head chef at Sense, the Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant at the Mandarin Oriental in Tokyo, prepares dishes such as a beef mi-cuit with a tobanjan sauce and the more traditional Lo-Hei Style bass. There is also a dim-sum menu.
— LAURE GUILBAULT
25 Rue Pont Aux Choux, 75003
Open Tuesday to Sunday, from 8:30 a.m. (or 9:30 a.m. on Saturday) to 11 p.m. (or 6 p.m. on Sundays).
32 Rue de Picardie, 75003
Open daily from 8 a.m. to 1 a.m., with lunch from noon to 2 p.m. and dinner from 7:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.
PAINT THE TOWN: As much as the Foundation Louis Vuitton shook up the Bois de Boulogne landscape, Olafur Eliasson will turn one’s senses upside down with his installation there. Part of the foundation’s inaugural program, “Contact” explores the relationship between space and light, creating a cosmos in which visitors question their own perception.
In early 2015 four exhibitions in Paris offer a great opportunity to examine the link between fashion and art.
“Fashion Mix”’ features the contribution foreign designers have made to French know-how in the fashion world. From couturiers propelling existing houses, such as Karl Lagerfeld or Marc Jacobs, to the birth of the Japanese or Belgian contingents in the City of Light, the immigration museum illustrates the subject with more than a hundred dresses and accessories from private and public archives.
An artist isn’t always a designer but the opposite is true; that’s what the Magda Danysz Gallery demonstrates with drawings by fashion masters juxtaposed with contemporary artists’ creations.
Sonia Delaunay — the multifaceted painter who interacted with the fashion world through her textile creations and new approach to color — could have fit well into that show. But she is currently the subject of a retrospective at the Musée d’Art Moderne, the first the artist has had in 50 years in Paris.
Christian Lacroix is playing curator at the Musée Cognacq-Jay, which asked him to oversee the installation of its 18th-century collection prior to its reopening. Ten rooms with 10 themes mix the work from the museum and from contemporary artists to reflect the age of enlightenment.
Meanwhile, the Gagosian gallery explores the remarkable career of French artist Balthus, shedding light on his controversial paintings and photographs. And for those who missed the Jeff Koons retrospective in New York, the Centre Pompidou is displaying the works of this other provocative artist until the end of April.
“Olafur Eliasson: Contact,” through February 16
Fondation Louis Vuitton, 8 Avenue du Mahatma Gandhi, 75116
Open Monday, Wednesday to Thursday from 12 p.m. to 7 p.m., Friday from 12 p.m. to 11 p.m., and Saturday to Sunday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.
“Fashion Mix — Mode d’Ici, Créateurs d’Ailleurs,” through May 21
Musée de l’Histoire de l’Immigration, 293 Avenue Daumesnil, 75012
Open Tuesday to Friday, from 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., Saturday to Sunday from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.
“Direction Artistique,” through February 14
Galerie Magda Danysz, 78 Rue Amelot, 75011
Open Tuesday to Friday, from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., Saturday, from 2 p.m. to 7 p.m.
“Sonia Delaunay: The Colours of Abstraction,” through February 22
Musée d’Art Moderne, 11 Avenue du Président Wilson, 75116
Open Tuesday to Sunday, from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Thursday, from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.
“Lumières: Carte Blanche à Christian Lacroix,” through April 19
Musée Cognacq-Jay, 8 Rue Elzévir, 75003
Open Tuesday to Sunday, from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
“Balthus,” through February 28
Gagosian Gallery, 4 Rue de Ponthieu, 75008
Open Tuesday to Saturday, from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.
“Jeff Koons: A Retrospective,” through April 27, 2015
Centre Pompidou, Place Georges Pompidou, 75004
Open Wednesday to Monday, from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.