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MINIMAL PAIRS: A minimalist vibe is gripping Paris retail, with the opening of two temples of cool in the less-is-more vein.
This story first appeared in the June 28, 2013 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
The MM6 Maison Martin Margiela store, located up the street from Colette, is the first European unit for the contemporary label launched in 1997. Located on Place du Marché Saint-Honoré, the 860-square-foot boutique features industrial white tiles on the floor, walls and ceiling.
The clinical expanse is broken up by planes of dark parquet floor in a chevron pattern, which is mirrored on the ceiling. The store offers women’s ready-to-wear, shoes, accessories and leather goods.
Helmut Lang has picked the fast-evolving Upper Marais district for its return to the French capital.
A multilevel hanging rack system contrasts with the space’s bare white walls and concrete floor. Leather chairs and sleek black lumber tables accentuate the contrast between raw and refined. The 650-square-foot store sells the pre-fall 2013 collection, women’s rtw and accessories.
MM6 Maison Martin Margiela
22 Place du Marché Saint-Honoré, 75001
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 11 a.m.-7 p.m.
15 Rue Debelleyme, 75003
Hours: Monday, 11 a.m.-7 p.m.; Tuesday to Sunday, 11 a.m.-7:30 p.m.
— Joelle Diderich
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BEASTS AND BAUBLES: Eugenie Niarchos will host a cocktail party to celebrate the launch of her Venyx jewelry collection at the Art Deco brasserie Minim’s on July 1.
The 26-year-old socialite, who is the great-granddaughter of Gloria Guinness and counts among her closest friends Margherita Missoni and Tatiana Santo Domingo, is no stranger to jewelry design. She has already collaborated with Gaia Repossi on two capsule collections and two costume jewelry lines for Azzaro, under Vanessa Seward.
Niarchos’ first solo line, called Reptilia, includes 14 rings, one necklace and two pairs of earrings, inspired by the patterns formed by reptile skins and shells.
“It is not about the shape of the animal, it is about the beauty of its skin,” said Niarchos.
Encrusted diamonds render the turtle shells of the Madagascar ring, while gold and sapphires give roughness to the Chamaeleo ring. Prices range from 600 to 6,000 pounds, or $912 to $9,120 at current exchange. Niarchos’ next collection will focus on natural elements, such as falling stars, lightning and clouds. Said the designer, “I am inspired by details of all beautiful things in nature.”
— Laure Guilbault
THREE’S A CHARM: After Osaka and Taiwan, Roger & Gallet chose Paris as the third location for a freestanding store. The Rue Saint-Honoré boutique carries the L’Oréal-owned brand’s full line. Colorful beauty products line the walls of the 500-square-foot shop, which is otherwise primarily white with wooden floors. The back wall is devoted to Roger & Gallet’s signature round soaps wrapped in tissue paper.
Meanwhile, just a few steps away, Dior has opened its first pop-up shop for beauty. The 860-square-foot boutique sells the brand’s range of fragrance, makeup and skin care, plus some items exclusive to the location.
The space is streamlined, with black lacquer counters and neon florescent lighting. Two Dior makeup artists are on hand for advice, color-cosmetics applications and lessons. Services are available to clients by appointment, including skin-care and fragrance consultations, treatments, makeovers and “express” manicures lasting 20 minutes. The Dior store is slated to remain open for an undisclosed period of time.
Roger & Gallet
195 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001
Tel.: +33-1- 42-60-10-68
Hours: Monday to Friday, 10 a.m.-7 p.m.
Dior Ephemeral Boutique
368 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 10 a.m.-8 p.m.
— Katherine Grant Albert and Carter Inskeep-Rosenfeld
QUICK CUISINE: To cater to a time-pressed clientele, Eric Briffard, the two-star chef at the Four Seasons George V, has come up with a gastronomic menu, Le Cinq en 55, offered only during the week.
Le Cinq en 55 is a two-course lunch (including a starter and main or a main and dessert) served up in less than 55 minutes, coffee included. The menu changes every Thursday, with the most recent entries being lemon risotto, whiting with almonds, Black Angus steak with cherry chutney and a peach medley with saffron and raspberries. The price is 75 euros, or $98 at current exchange.
Le Cinq at the Four Seasons Hotel George V Paris
31 Avenue George V, 75008
— Tina Isaac
FLAIR FOR DECO: The Ritz and the Crillon might be closed for renovations, with the Plaza Athénée set to follow, but visitors to the French capital’s Golden Triangle can now opt to stay in the Art Deco splendor of the reopened Prince de Galles, part of Starwood’s Luxury Collection Hotels & Resorts.
Originally designed by architect André Arfvidson, the hotel has undergone a two-year restoration led by French designers Pierre-Yves Rochon and Bruno Borrione. The lobby decor, with its black marble, Macassar ebony and handcrafted chandelier by Delisle, sets the tone for the hotel’s 115 guest rooms and 44 suites.
In its restaurant, La Scène, executive chef Stéphanie Le Quellec presides over an open kitchen decked in white marble. For a more intimate experience, guests can visit the bar, Les Heures, where the drinks list includes Twenties-themed cocktails such as the Paris Mule and the Princesses de Galles.
Prince de Galles, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Paris
33 Avenue George V, 75008
— Joelle Diderich
ALL IN THE FAMILY: The latest entry on the Paris boutique hotel scene, Edgar Restaurant & Hotel is nothing if not a collaborative effort. After years of searching, Guillaume Rouget-Luchaire, who already owns two restaurants in Paris’ 11th arrondissement — American Bistro and Le Petit Cheval de Manège — landed a former textile atelier on a quiet square in the Sentier district.
Once major renovations were done, he tapped a dozen family members — including step-father Yann Arthus-Bertrand; cousin Carole Caufman, who is the style director of Petit Bateau, and an artist aunt — to decorate each of the hotel’s 13 rooms. The result is a charmingly eclectic ensemble ranging from a tribal cabinet of curiosities to a tree house to a Kenyan safari (Arthus-Bertrand’s room).
A sleek, retro-modern restaurant on the ground floor is decorated with teal walls, graphic motifs and metallic accessories. Inspired by “a Barcelona self-service,” it specializes in catch-of-the-day dishes made for sharing, such as calamari à la plancha and seafood platters served with homemade fries.
Double rooms start at 170 euros, or $221 at current exchange. The restaurant is open daily for breakfast, lunch, brunch and dinner, but closed Sunday night.
Edgar Hotel & Restaurant
31 Rue d’Alexandrie, 75002
CUISINE MASH-UP: “South America meets the Maine” is the inspiration for the menu and design of the Fish Club. Its founders, the trio behind Experimental Cocktail Club in Paris, London and New York, and Beef Club, dedicated their latest venture to seafood tapas. The duplex space seats 70 and has bright colors inspired by Aztec art and white tiles reminiscent of a Spanish tapas bar.
Diners sip cocktails, such as pisco sours and tigre de lèche, and nibble on ceviche and tiradito, crab cakes and lobster rolls. The Gallic owners didn’t forget to include oysters from Cap Ferret in Southwestern France, langoustines and Sancerre white wine. Dinner comes to around 50 euros, or $65 at current exchange. For inveterate meat lovers, Beef Club is next door.
For an Asian experience, try Miss Ko. Design maven Philippe Starck is behind the kooky and frenetic spot, inspired by a Hong Kong bazaar. Its menu is organized by Asian street-food varieties, with all kinds of sushi, bo buns and pad thai.
“We were inspired by Bondst and Buddakan in New York,” said Gregory Simon Fellous, general manager of Miss Ko, which is set to hit New York’s Bowery in 2014.
Another new hot spot with an Asian feel is the Buddha-Bar Hotel, which opened June 10. It’s in an 18th-century hôtel particulier on the Right Bank, and Buddha-Bar regulars will find it familiar since it has a neo-Asian decor — a gold, crimson, red and dark orange palette on the walls, a black lacquered ceiling and Chinese lanterns.
The hotel has 35 rooms and 21 suites, Le Vraymonde restaurant run by Rougui Dia — former chef at the Petrossian caviar restaurant — and a lounge bar.
Nightly rates range from 315 euros, or $410, to 4,000 euros, or $5,209. Meanwhile, the Buddha-Bar that’s nearby on Rue Boissy d’Anglas remains open.
Other fashion-crowd favorites include Monsieur Bleu, the new brasserie in the Palais de Tokyo, and Café Français, the latest Costes venture on Place de la Bastille. For that venue, Thierry and Gilbert Costes commissioned designer India Mahdavi and graphic design duo M/M, plus consulted with Jean-François Piège for the menu consisting of traditional bistro fare.
58 Rue Jean Jacques Rousseau, 75003
Hours: Tuesday to Saturday, 6 p.m.-midnight
49-51 Avenue George V, 75008
Hours: Daily, noon-1 a.m.
4 Rue d’Anjou, 75008
20 Avenue de New York, 75116
Hours: Daily, noon.-2 a.m.
1 Place de la Bastille, 75004
Hours: Daily, noon to midnight
MUSEUM MILES: Paris’ art scene is percolating this summer.
The Cartier foundation is showcasing the hyper-realistic human sculptures of Australian artist Ron Mueck for the second time. Six recent works are juxtaposed with three pieces made exclusively for the show in unsettling out-of-scale proportions. There’s also a documentary featuring Mueck’s daily life in his atelier.
“Otherness. I is somebody else” examines the concept of identity through self-portraits and special creations in a wide array of media. The 22nd exhibition at the Espace Louis Vuitton brings together artists from different backgrounds for creative encounters based on existential questions of the “other.”
For the first time in Europe, Lorna Simpson is the subject of a large exhibition at the Jeu de Paume. The installation comprises figurative photographs associated with texts and videos accompanied by music, inviting viewers to join her in the investigation of memory and the relationship between idea and representation.
Another master of black-and-white photography, Patrick Demarchelier, has about 20 of his portraits on view at the A. Galerie. The show, called “Desire,” focuses on women’s sensuality.
Although always reluctant to have his works exhibited, 130 paintings by France’s great colorist Simon Hantaï are featured at the Pompidou Center. Spanning 1949 to the Nineties, the retrospective offers a rare opportunity to explore the fascinating career of the painter mainly known for his canvas-folding method.
A hop out of town, in Versailles, there’s a lot to be seen.
Celebrating the 400th birthday of the architect of the chateau’s gardens, André Le Nôtre, Versailles has on display works by Korean naturalist photographer Ahae and Italian sculptor Giuseppe Penone. All taken from the same window, Ahae’s poetic images follow a thematic path through the galleries of Versailles’ Orangerie building and emphasize his extraordinary vision of nature. Displayed mostly outdoors, Penone’s famous tree sculptures are scattered along the Allée Royale and in the grove nearby, reconnecting man and nature.
“Ron Mueck,” to Sept. 29.
Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain
261 Boulevard Raspail, 75014
Hours: Tuesday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Wednesday to Sunday, 11 a.m.-8 p.m.
“Otherness. I is somebody else,” to Sept. 15.
Espace Culturel Louis Vuitton
60 Rue de Bassano, 75008
Hours: Monday to Saturday, noon-7 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m.-7 p.m.
“Lorna Simpson,” to Sept. 1.
Jeu de Paume
1 Place de la Concorde, 75008
Hours: Tuesday, noon-9 p.m.; Wednesday to Friday, noon-7 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 10 a.m.-7 p.m.
“Desire,” to July 22.
4 Rue Léonce Reynaud, 75116
Hours: Monday to Friday, 11 a.m.-1:30 p.m. and 3-7 p.m.; Saturday, noon-7 p.m.
“Simon Hantaï,” to Sept. 2.
Centre Pompidou, Place Georges Pompidou, 75004
Hours: Wednesday to Monday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
“The Extraordinary Within the Ordinary — Photography by Ahae,” to Sept. 9
Orangerie de Versailles, Château de Versailles, Place d’Armes, 78000 Versailles
Hours: Daily, 10 a.m.-6 p.m.
“Penone Versailles,” to Oct. 31.
Cour d’honneur, Château de Versailles, Place d’Armes, 78000 Versailles
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 9 a.m.-6:30 p.m.
— Anne-Aymone Gheerbrant
A LOOK AT LOPEZ: For those seeking a fashion-art fix outside of Paris, there’s the exhibition “Antonio Lopez and the World of Fashion Art” being held at the Lacoste, France-based location of the Savannah College of Art and Design. André Leon Talley, editor at large for Numéro Russia and contributing editor to American Vogue, curated the show, which runs from July 4 to Aug. 24.
The exhibition features three decades of the fashion illustrator’s work — in media such as pencil, ink, watercolor, charcoal and film — including pieces from Lopez’s archive.
His drawings ran in publications including Vogue, the New York Times and Interview.
— Jennifer Weil
PEDESTRIANS’ PARADISE: For harried fashion-goers, Paris has plenty of relaxing spots, including a promenade along the Seine’s left bank and at the Place de la République.
The 1.4-mile stretch between the Pont de l’Alma and the Musée d’Orsay now caters to pedestrians, joggers, cyclists, kids and tourists alike with a floating garden, athletics court, climbing wall, cultural activities and an events space, picnic area and playground. There are also numerous new bars, restaurants and terraces. Some specific highlights include:
• Faust, a bar, near the Alexandre III bridge.
• Le Flow, a restaurant offering a substantial menu of burgers, bagels, salads and artisanal pastries, near the Alexandre III bridge.
• Les Jardin Flottants, floating gardens comprising five islands connected by footbridges, on the Seine, next to the Alma bridge.
Across town and on the Right Bank is the newly renovated Place de la République, replete with tables and chairs and a free game library, among other features.
— Carter Inskeep-Rosenfeld