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Godspeed to anyone with the desire to open yet another bar/restaurant below 14th Street on Manhattan’s East Side. It’s governed by Community Board 3, notorious for rejecting liquor licenses, and it seems every other weekend, cops are raiding clubs like The Box or 205. But next week, Jason Swamy, owner of the now-shuttered West Village club Movida, is opening a restaurant, called Cantina, on Avenue B. Jason Neroni, formerly chef of 71 Clinton Fresh Food, is consulting on the Latin menu and Jason Volenec, who designed La Esquina and 205, decorated the two-room space.
“After Movida closed, I was just nursing my wounds; I didn’t want to do the club thing,” Swamy says. “I’ve always had a passion for Latin culture and cuisine and have traveled extensively to South America, Spain and the Caribbean. I really enjoy the food and ambience.”
Now, while Swamy has done his best to re-create that sort of atmosphere, no one at Cantina is reinventing the wheel by offering standard Latin-inspired fare in a small, deliberately dilapidated space downtown. And yet few can doubt the restaurant will be packed with hungry hipsters, eager for empanadas and sweet churros, booking birthday dinners at the big family table in the private room.
On the other side of Houston Street, Richard Friedberg opened his latest venture, Allen & Delancey, last week on the corner of the same name. He happened upon the space after a friend bought a condo upstairs. He says: “She called me up and said, ‘Dick, I have a problem. They are opening a Quiznos below me and I’m going to have four-legged friends with long tails running around.'”
Friedberg came to her rescue, buying the space and enlisting a top-name toque, Neil Ferguson, who was formerly cooking at Gordon Ramsay’s The London, to command the kitchen. Ferguson’s menu includes sophisticated fare such as sea scallops with celery root and caramelized bone marrow with caviar. And if it sounds too high-brow for a neighborhood still home to bars boasting $2 PBR, Friedberg is not concerned. “If you combine the right atmosphere and the right price points, people will come,” he insists. “It’s that simple.”
This story first appeared in the October 9, 2007 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
29 Avenue B; 212-228-0599
On the Menu: Warm sheep’s cheese with mint, chilies and green olives; braised pork shoulder empanadas; chicken thighs with black beans and rice.
Allen & Delancey
115 Allen Street; 212-253-5400
On the Menu: Cod filet with anchovy, piquillo peppers, confit lemon and five-day spinach; slow-roasted pork belly with pickled pear, parsnip and sage.