PARIS — A crop of emerging brands are paving the way for innerwear's green future. Here are a few of the movement's pioneers who will be showing in the Salon International de la Lingerie's "Spicy Garden."
Eco-Boudoir Founder: Jenny White Age: 31 Based: London Founded: 2007 Sold at: 14 sales points, including Harrods in London and Catriona MacKechnie in New York. Retail prices: From $70 for an eye mask to $600 for an organic silk dressing gown. Background: Eco-Boudoir flowered from a sustainable fashion project White developed as part of her master's of arts degree at Central Saint Martins. Philosophy: "People think eco-friendly lingerie is all about bamboo bras, but it's much more than that. It's about researching the production process; using recycled packaging; avoiding harmful dyes; opting for digital printing, which is the greenest way of printing, and using sustainable fabrics. It's also important to check out the working conditions of the production facilities."
White also aims to shake off the category's hippie associations. "I'm going for the luxury end of the market. Green can be sexy and glamorous." Combating carbon: "Customers ordering from abroad are given the opportunity to donate $10 to Iracambi, a nonprofit organization that works to conserve the Atlantic Rainforest. Drawbacks: "Green innerwear is more expensive to produce." Fall 2008 collection: "I've used energetic prints featuring feathers and jewels," and she's enlarged her selection of panties and bras, using organic silk from Thailand, bamboo and hemp. Extras: Pouches filled with organic lavender and organic cotton pillows. Future projects: "I'm looking to design an organic cotton bed linen range."
Peau-Ethique Founder: Kathy Abruzzo Age: 49 Based: Saint-Chamond, France Founded: 2004 Sold at: Counting mainly small boutiques and eco-oriented stores, the brand is found in 150 doors, including La Maison Simons in Quebec. Retail prices: $30 for a bra to $60 for pajamas. Offer: Organic socks, tights, lingerie and nightwear for children and adults. Production: The brand's organic cotton is sourced from a fair trade cooperative in Turkey. Production takes place in an atelier in Istanbul that was set up for underprivileged women."We provide vouchers for their lunch and transport," said Abruzzo, adding that she is in talks to develop production with government-organized organic silk firms in India and Cambodia, as well as alpaca wool producers in Peru, for next year. Peculiarity: Peau-Ethique produces one collection a year to encourage long-life usage of its products. "Going against short fashion cycles is also part of being green," Abruzzo said. Background: A fabric buyer. Philosophy: "Lingerie is the closest garment to the skin, which makes it a compatible category for eco-friendly fabrics." Combating carbon: "Our stock travels from Istanbul by boat, then is driven over from Italy by truck. If it arrives late, then tough luck." Drawbacks: "Communication. Too few people know about green lingerie brands." Fall 2008 collection: More fantasy elements will be at play for fall, such as embroidery and organic cotton lace. Colors run from chocolate to fuchsia. Future projects: Peau-Ethique is looking to mount an agency in the U.S. this year so product can be shipped there directly by boat.
G=9.8 Founder: Sophie Young Age: 37 Based: Clamart, France Founded: 2006 Sold at: Around 20 stores, including Pivot in Chicago and the 3 Suisses catalogue in France. Offer: Legwear, lingerie and loungewear. Peculiarity: The collection's fabric is developed from white pine fiber. Background: An architect. "It would have cost millions to test out ecoprojects in architecture," said Young. "I've always liked fashion, saw a niche for developing a green brand in the lingerie sector and went for it." Philosophy: "Our collection is timeless, folding in a few new styles and colors each season." Combating carbon: "We try to use trains [for transport] as much as possible. We also use local production and recycled packaging." Fall 2008 collection: New hues include moss green, duck blue and raspberry. Future projects: "We're researching biodegradable fabrics."
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye