PARIS — A crop of emerging brands are paving the way for innerwear's green future. Here are a few of the movement's pioneers who will be showing in the Salon International de la Lingerie's "Spicy Garden."
Eco-Boudoir Founder: Jenny White Age: 31 Based: London Founded: 2007 Sold at: 14 sales points, including Harrods in London and Catriona MacKechnie in New York. Retail prices: From $70 for an eye mask to $600 for an organic silk dressing gown. Background: Eco-Boudoir flowered from a sustainable fashion project White developed as part of her master's of arts degree at Central Saint Martins. Philosophy: "People think eco-friendly lingerie is all about bamboo bras, but it's much more than that. It's about researching the production process; using recycled packaging; avoiding harmful dyes; opting for digital printing, which is the greenest way of printing, and using sustainable fabrics. It's also important to check out the working conditions of the production facilities."
White also aims to shake off the category's hippie associations. "I'm going for the luxury end of the market. Green can be sexy and glamorous." Combating carbon: "Customers ordering from abroad are given the opportunity to donate $10 to Iracambi, a nonprofit organization that works to conserve the Atlantic Rainforest. Drawbacks: "Green innerwear is more expensive to produce." Fall 2008 collection: "I've used energetic prints featuring feathers and jewels," and she's enlarged her selection of panties and bras, using organic silk from Thailand, bamboo and hemp. Extras: Pouches filled with organic lavender and organic cotton pillows. Future projects: "I'm looking to design an organic cotton bed linen range."
Peau-Ethique Founder: Kathy Abruzzo Age: 49 Based: Saint-Chamond, France Founded: 2004 Sold at: Counting mainly small boutiques and eco-oriented stores, the brand is found in 150 doors, including La Maison Simons in Quebec. Retail prices: $30 for a bra to $60 for pajamas. Offer: Organic socks, tights, lingerie and nightwear for children and adults. Production: The brand's organic cotton is sourced from a fair trade cooperative in Turkey. Production takes place in an atelier in Istanbul that was set up for underprivileged women."We provide vouchers for their lunch and transport," said Abruzzo, adding that she is in talks to develop production with government-organized organic silk firms in India and Cambodia, as well as alpaca wool producers in Peru, for next year. Peculiarity: Peau-Ethique produces one collection a year to encourage long-life usage of its products. "Going against short fashion cycles is also part of being green," Abruzzo said. Background: A fabric buyer. Philosophy: "Lingerie is the closest garment to the skin, which makes it a compatible category for eco-friendly fabrics." Combating carbon: "Our stock travels from Istanbul by boat, then is driven over from Italy by truck. If it arrives late, then tough luck." Drawbacks: "Communication. Too few people know about green lingerie brands." Fall 2008 collection: More fantasy elements will be at play for fall, such as embroidery and organic cotton lace. Colors run from chocolate to fuchsia. Future projects: Peau-Ethique is looking to mount an agency in the U.S. this year so product can be shipped there directly by boat.
G=9.8 Founder: Sophie Young Age: 37 Based: Clamart, France Founded: 2006 Sold at: Around 20 stores, including Pivot in Chicago and the 3 Suisses catalogue in France. Offer: Legwear, lingerie and loungewear. Peculiarity: The collection's fabric is developed from white pine fiber. Background: An architect. "It would have cost millions to test out ecoprojects in architecture," said Young. "I've always liked fashion, saw a niche for developing a green brand in the lingerie sector and went for it." Philosophy: "Our collection is timeless, folding in a few new styles and colors each season." Combating carbon: "We try to use trains [for transport] as much as possible. We also use local production and recycled packaging." Fall 2008 collection: New hues include moss green, duck blue and raspberry. Future projects: "We're researching biodegradable fabrics."
Breaking News: @louisvuitton's men's artistic director @mrkimjones is leaving the French fashion house after nearly 7 years. Jones joined Louis Vuitton in 2011, following a three year tenure as creative director of British luxury goods brand Alfred Dunhill. Jones is to exit Louis Vuitton after showing his fall 2018 collection for the brand in Paris on Thursday. Read the full exclusive story on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews