Only Hearts, the retail and design company created by Helena Stuart for “shameless romantics,” opened its first vintage lingerie pop-up shop in NoLIta this month at 230 Mott Street in Manhattan. The shop will be open through Jan. 1.
Called OH:PoP, the jewel box boutique is a throwback to the 31-year-old brand’s roots and features unworn, limited edition lingerie and some ready-to-wear pieces from the Only Hearts archives that Stuart designed in the Seventies, Eighties and early Nineties.
The idea of opening the OH:PoP shop was gleaned from the first Only Hearts store that bowed in 1978 on West 73rd Street and Columbus Avenue. The boutique was filled with Stuart’s passion — anything heart-shaped — such as accessories and lingerie, sleepwear and ready-to-wear-looking layering pieces that featured heart embroideries, appliques, lace patterns and hardware.
Stuart, a graduate of the Fashion Institute of Technology, started out with simple lace-trimmed camis and T-shirts, hand-dyeing cotton and cutting patterns on the floor of her Manhattan apartment. The items quickly sold out at her Upper West Side shop, and Stuart expanded the line to include easy T-shirt dresses, leggings, lace trousers and tiny tulle tank tops.
Stuart said she and her daughter, Kaya, who contributes to management and design, decided to open a pop-up shop because it represents the entrepreneurial spirit behind Only Hearts.
“We were walking around downtown looking at all of the little stores that looked like boxes and I said, ‘This is amazing. This is what we used to do,’” said Stuart.
Kaya Stuart noted, “I had this flashback. I thought, ‘Wow, our archives are so relevant to what’s going on now, especially with the popularity of the Eighties.’ I thought this was a great opportunity to define our art work and our origin.”
Today, Stuart oversees a wholesale business, two specialty shops in Manhattan, a boutique in Santa Monica, Calif., and three boutiques in Rome. Total combined annual sales are around $2 million in the U.S., and $2 million in Italy.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast