The spring couture collection John Galliano showed for Christian Dior on Monday was wildly luxurious and full of extraordinary craftsmanship. He used lots of volume to dramatic effect in exaggerated peplums, trapezes and pleated panels. Here, one example: a dress which suggests a robe à la Française.
Inspired by a 19th-century portrait, John Galliano presented a Dior couture collection full of 21st-century extravagance, while Donatella Versace rounded out the first day of the season with a shot of Hollywood glamour.
Christian Dior: "Madame X," John Singer Sargent's wonderfully scandalous portrait of Virginie Amélie Gautreau, was the starting point for the Christian Dior collection John Galliano showed on Monday, the soundtrack of which closed with The Guess Who's "American Woman," minus the anti-war lyrics. Interesting brackets for an outing that gushed with willful decadence in extravagantly bunched taffetas, mega doses of euphoric color and a deluge of mesmerizing embroideries, shown against a set of exotic swags, fringes and tassels lit to a dangerous absinthe green. Just like Sargent's 1884 canvas, Galliano's lineup fascinated with its voluptuousness, its sensuality, its complete disregard for current social mores.
These days, of course, Dior and most other high-end houses are looking beyond the lands of crashing markets and government-issue $500 checks for all. In that light, Mme. Gautreau emerges as something more than mere fashion muse — her X-factor just might stand for all that's still left to be learned about luxury's — and by extension haute couture's — most eager customers. "American woman, stay away from me....I've got more important things to do than spend my time growing old with you." Especially when there's a whole new world of emerging markets out there, luring with the thrill of the unknown and filled with filthy-rich women, mysterious fashion mistresses, if you will, who seem not to share the Western view that discretion is the soul of chic. Not that Galliano's Dior is abandoning its traditional base, but if the wife lets herself go, the mistress might just take over for good.
Nor was Galliano's lineup what one would call exactly wearable by any woman anywhere in almost any conceivable situation. Rather, once again he indulged in a lavish treatise of possibility marked by breathtaking craftsmanship — make that artistry. The clothes are masterpieces of construction, this time featuring controlled volume, oodles of it, in stiffened trapezes, intricate peplums, huge sculpted roses and any number of high-drama robe à la Française back panels, all embellished with stunningly beautiful embroideries and hand-paintings inspired variously by vintage perfume bottles and the mythical Greek Chimera. But extravagance to the nth degree, no matter how gorgeous its components, can turn oppressive. In fall's Bal des Artistes and last spring's ravishing ode to Japonica, Galliano avoided that trap to perfection, transporting his audience to worlds of wonder. Here his impassioned pursuit of more just felt like too much.Versace: The fact that a house opts out of a major wingding couture show does not necessarily mean that its principals are willing to pass on photo ops of the red-carpet and editorial variety. Case in point: Versace, where Donatella Versace has long believed in the value of a good celebrity sighting. Thus she shipped her collection of 15 couture dresses to her Paris boutique for viewing by appointment before they move on to L.A. for the Oscars, should that event take place. Though the house standard sexy goddess dresses were oddly absent, the lineup of siren corsetry, shine and curvaceous frills should be more than enough to land Versace a spot in the awards-show limelight.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews