BEIRUT — As the list of names of Lebanese designers showing during Paris Couture Week grows, one regular came back home to Beirut this season.“I felt in a way that I need to do something in my country,” said designer Basil Soda. “We left because of the war in 2006.”Throughout the ensuing difficulties, he continued to operate his atelier from Beirut but showed in Paris. This season he brought his collection home because, he said, “we need to change the mood here.”His spring couture collection was unveiled in a presentation format to local media, buyers and international guests. Inspired by Pieris butterflies, the collection was rendered in sheer fabrics — tulle, chiffon and lace."“Everyone who knows me knows I’m a little bit aggressive, so I took my woman to a garden,” said Soda, explaining the delicate nature of the collection.In keeping with the hard lines and cuts that have come to define the designer, he juxtaposed the softness of the butterfly by exposing what he calls the inner skeleton. “When you see an image in an X ray, you see a lot of details that are not known,” he explained. Each piece is a combination of two dresses layered over one another, the softness of the butterfly juxtaposed against the X ray underneath.With the help of celebrity placement agents and stylists, Soda’s couture creations have become quite popular on the red carpet. He has dressed Marion Cotillard, Lady Gaga, Katy Perry, Paris Hilton, Britney Spears and Morena Baccarin.He said the exposure has done a lot for the business. “One of the best things we’ve done is working on the red carpet. This reflects in sales. When you start doing ready-to-wear, the buyers taking your brand are interesting in seeing your visibility. Visibility through the red carpet is excellent,” he said, hastening to add, “I don’t want to be only a red-carpet designer.”His rtw, now in its fifth season, is gaining traction. He currently sells in nine markets, including the U.S., France, Russia and the Middle East. He produces 1,200 pieces a season at his atelier in Beirut. As demand increases, he hopes to move production to Milan. Next season he will also launch his accessories line, as well as his second ad campaign, featuring model Jessica Stam.Though he will again show couture in Paris, bringing his couture collection back to Beirut was partly business-driven. “For the couture, we still rely on our customers from the Middle East,” said Soda. Lebanon has a long tradition of couture, catering to Middle Eastern clients who spend lavishly, especially on weddings.Soda said he employs 75 tailors and 35 embroiderers, mostly for the couture business. He spent four years working for fellow Lebanese designer Elie Saab, whom he considers a good friend. “I admire him, I respect him, he’s a person I love,” he said. “I left only because I wanted to open my own.”Soda said he opted for a presentation instead of a runway show in Beirut because logistically it is difficult to bring models, as well as production crews, into Lebanon. However, he said things at home are evolving at a rapid pace.“There is a generation here. I want to work with stylists here. There is a new vibe happening, they have a different sense of fashion. I’m still very attached,” he said.
“I design by visualization. I see things, and most of the time they’re not practical to actually make, and what I’ve found here, it’s like anything’s possible. This is the first time that I’ve made a sole unit in two months. That process usually would take six, so here’s a difference,” said @virgilabloh of the first sneaker sample he created for @louisvuitton, pictured here. Abloh spoke to WWD about his debut collection for Louis Vuitton, creating @kendalljenner’s #metgala outfit and redefining the heritage brand. Read the full story on WWD.com. #wwdfashion (📷: @alfredo_piola)
The world’s largest producer of denim @iskodenim is sharing the strategy behind its product development process. Read our full interview with ISKO’s product development manager Baris Ozden on the company’s extensive research practices, upcoming denim trends and the latest material innovations on WWD.com. #iskodenim
“I genuinely fell in love with water, I fell in love with Fiji, I fell in love with the whole life that we lived for those few months,” says @mrsamclaflin of filming for his new movie “Adrift” with @shailenewoodley. The 31-year-old actor spoke with WWD about his upcoming projects, meeting Jamie Dornan and working with co-star Woodley. #wwdeye (📷: @jamstoker)
3 years ago, fans of the late singer Aaliyah started calling for a collaboration with @maccosmetics. With the strength of social media — including mock ups of products — 25,000 people signed a Change.org petition for a limited-edition collection, and MAC couldn’t ignore the buzz. Tomorrow, MAC will unveil MAC x Aaliyah, a tribute to the singer who passed away nearly 17 years ago. Head to our stories to preview the new collection, which was worked on by Aaliyah’s family and inspired directly by her makeup bag. #wwdbeauty
Artistic director @clarewaightkeller will be dedicating @givenchyofficial’s fall 2018 couture show in Paris on July 1 to house founder Hubert de Givenchy, who passed away in March at age 91. Givenchy said the collection would be “an homage to his iconic creations, technique, and personal lexicon” and a “celebration of his timeless elegance and grace.” Head to WWD.com to read more. #wwdfashion (📷: Delphine Achard)
La Double J made a name for itself with its vintage-inspired prints, but for resort, designer JJ Martin has ventured into new territory: enter rich jewel toned solids and decadent embellishment, in the form of appliqués, crystals and sequins. #wwdfashion #resort19 #ladoublej
This Just In: J. Crew Group has named Johanna Uurasjarvi as its chief design officer.
Uurasjarvi succeeds Somsack Sikhounmuong, who left the company last September. Tap the link in bio for the full report. #wwdnews
“She came into my hotel room and she was like, ‘I have Chanel and Christian Dior.’ She was like, ‘Chanel likes you.’ And I was like, ‘I’m going to start crying,’” breakout star Maddie Hasson tells WWD of her styling sessions Molly Dickson. “I really like classic, elegant things. I love the way Anna Wintour dresses.” Read more about Hasson’s role in @impulseseries on wwd.com. (📸: @jgreenery ) #wwdeye
@virgilabloh revealed he's working with Australian stylist and
Vogue Australia fashion director @christinecentenera for his debut @louisvuitton men's collection, which will be presented in Paris on June 21. Centenera met Abloh while both working with Kanye West, where she consulted on his all his runway collections since his debut spring 2012 women's wear show. Read the full story on WWD.com. #wwdfashion #wwdnews (📷: @asussmanphoto)