In a new documentary, Ralph Rucci draws back the curtains of his close-knit atelier to zoom in on the complex workmanship and hive of activity that led up to his couture show in Paris last fall.
Director David Boatman’s “Ralph Rucci: A Designer and His House” also gives a behind-the-scenes view of how the designer developed the spring 2008 ready-to-wear and fall 2008 couture collections for his Chado Ralph Rucci label. Involved as that was — one ensemble required 140 meters of fabric and 1,000 hours of work — the film reveals the designer’s more offhanded side.
One on-camera moment captures Rucci showing off a pair of pants embroidered with lettering true to his handwriting and adds, “Trust me, some of these messages are very perverse because you have to make life interesting.”
In another, Rucci is seen checking with an assistant that “they can’t say vulture” to describe a banded silk tulle dress’ feathery material even though that is in fact what it is. Even more amusing is his follow-up comment: “There are women who actually buy these clothes. We don’t make couture to sell nail polish. These don’t go to a red carpet, I am proud to say. They go to women’s homes.”
The New York Times’ Cathy Horyn attests to that in the film, saying, “Ralph was making all these great clothes and he wasn’t getting a lot of press attention. I thought that was a little strange because he was selling a lot of clothes.”
In other scenes, James Galanos, Bergdorf Goodman’s Jim Gold, Fédération Française de la Couture’s Didier Grumbach and others also sing his praises. After becoming the first American designer to show his own signature collection in the Paris couture, in 2002, since Mainbocher in 1930, Rucci made a repeat performance last year. Unlike Mainbocher who set up a business in Paris prior to showing, Rucci was the only American to have been invited to show during couture.
Presented by Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia, the film airs Monday on the Sundance Channel. Stewart, a friend and fixture at his runway shows, joined Rucci’s muse Coco Mitchell, Amy Fine Collins, J. Alexander of “America’s Next Top Model” and other Rucci admirers at a screening Tuesday at the Museum of Modern Art. Afterward, Rucci said, “Watching it is exhausting almost because we work so intensely. I am also proud to see that it shows how we really are a family in the house.”
For its fashion week lineup, Sundance will also be showing films about Yves Saint Laurent, Florence Broadhurst and Marc Jacobs, among others.
There'll be no rest for those headed to Europe for men's, as Paris just closed the gap with Milan. According to a provisional calendar released by the Chambre Syndicale, Paris Men's Week will now open a day earlier on January 16. See new highlights on the official lineup on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
BREAKING: Jonathan Saunders is leaving @DVF. The designer has resigned from his position as chief creative officer of Diane von Furstenberg, the company said in a statement on Friday. At the time of his hire, von Furstenberg said Saunders’ arrival symbolized and facilitated her stepping back from the day-to-day duties that occupy the work of a full-time creative director. The British designer joined DVF in May 2016 and was in charge of all product categories. #wwdnews
For @versace_official’s spring ad campaign, the brand emphasized the archival prints from the spring tribute collection dedicated to the late Gianni Versace. Closing out the show were five of Gianni’s favorite models: Cindy, Naomi, Carla, Helena, and Claudia. Bowing on December 18, the new campaign is yet another tribute to supermodel-dom as the images by Steven Meisel are fronted by @iamnaomicampbell, @cturlington, @gisele and more. #wwdfashion
Four-time Oscar-nominated actress Annette Bening has been waiting 20 years to play Gloria Graham in "Film Stars Don't Die in Liverpool," which will be released on December 29. The movie about Graham – a Hollywood star known for her controversial relationship with a younger Englishman named Peter Turner – is based off a memoir Turned wrote. "She felt vulnerable to him, because she loved him, she really did love him. And anyone that we really truly are in love with, we re vulnerable to in a very deep way," said Bening. Read our full interview with the modern icon of an actress on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @ninebagatelles; Styled by @cristinaehrlich)
The crisp white button down: a staple that can be dressed up or down and accessorized throughout the decades. Here, on a Art Basel-goer in 2017 on the left and on the iconic Audrey Hepburn in “Roman Holiday” in 1953 on the right. #tbt #wwdfashion (📷: Andrew Morales)
Known for her work with @victoriassecret, 25-year-old model @georgiafowler is raising her profile in Hollywood. Fowler stars in @vincecamuto’s holiday campaign, which launched in partnership with “Pitch Perfect 3.” “Almost every shoot with Vince Camuto, I’ve had to face a fear…It was definitely a challenge. I’m so grateful for it, though. I’ve always wanted to be a pop star, so that was the perfect chance,” Fowler said. Head to WWD.com to read about Fowler’s experience modeling, including at the #VSFashionShow, and her relationship with Nick Jonas. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
EXCLUSIVE: Huda Kattan just became the first beauty influencer to land a major beauty deal. Kattan's business, @hudabeauty, has received a minority investment from private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners. The brand, which industry sources say is on track to do $200 million in retail sales for 2017, will receive support on product, retail and geographic expansion through the deal. Get all the details on the deal and read @_a_collins' interview with Kattan on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Peruvian model @juanaburga_official – who is known for walking the runways of @rodarte, @viviennewestwood and @torybuch – is making the move to the big screen with drama “Los Últimos.” The film premiered in Argentina in November and arrives in the U.S. and Europe in 2018. On making the switch from modeling to acting, Burga told WWD: “It’s a completely different thing – a lot of people think it’s similar or try to connect things, especially like getting used to the camera or being looked at all the time or playing these different characrers, but film is a completely different story.” #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery)
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)