A look from Francesco Scognamiglio's fall 2017 couture collection.
MILAN — Francesco Scognamiglio is not one to mince words. In his frank manner, the Neapolitan designer said he decided to bow out of the Paris couture schedule because the calendar had become "too confusing with American brands showing ready-to-wear and pre-collections." Through client appointments in Milan and the French capital, Scognamiglio wants to manifest "a sign of rupture. I am looking for something more discreet."Discreet, the collection was not. After all, Scognamiglio is not a minimalist designer and, for his fall couture collection, he reached for the sky. Literally. In particular, the garden of Eden and his vision of paradise were the inspirations for the lineup. Explaining the reasoning behind this, the designer said "it was a spontaneous idea, I was thinking of an almost surreal scenario, something that is unreachable, above the sky." Scognamiglio said he worked with a painter who translated his thoughts into a print of luscious leaves, lilies, blue skies and colorful parrots, seen on a fitted dress with a soft bow at the neck and a flounced, uneven hemline, and lit up by crystal stars. "These are almost like sacred birds," the designer said.Scognamiglio said the padded silk coats, embroidered with feathers or crystals, "are reminiscent of ancient China and the Eastern world. Crystals and stars embellish the coats." The craftsmanship was remarkable. Feathers also adorned pink or white column dresses.To present the looks, Scognamiglio asked Giampaolo Sgura to photograph Hilary Rhoda. "She is one of the most beautiful women and has a special purity and American image," he said. "With Giampaolo, we’ve been friends for 18 years and our careers developed together."Scognamiglio, who in 2015 sold 30 percent of his company to Y Capital Management, debuted in Paris during couture week in July last year.The Neapolitan designer made his runway debut in 2000 at Alta Roma during couture week in the Italian capital.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast