Anne Valérie Hash spread the love in her couture collection, while Martin Margiela and Guy Laroche's Marcel Marongiu used the opportunity to show their ready-to-wear, replete with deconstructed and no-nonsense looks, respectively.
Anne Valérie Hash: Over the years, Anne Valérie Hash has been a partisan of the masculine-feminine mix, but these days she's giving greater emphasis to the feminine side of that equation. Her spring couture, for example, was dedicated to "love" and offered a fair number of ultralight tulle confections — think translucent gowns — with a variety of shoulder manipulations and multiple origami effects. Glittering Art Deco-inspired embroidery added an element of dash, but it wasn't enough to make Hash's small collection of 14 looks into a sparkling performance.
Maison Martin Margiela: Taking the old and making it new has been a guiding principle for Martin Margiela ever since the secretive Belgian founded his business 20 years ago. The designer's latest witty creations for his so-called "artisanal" ready-to-wear line of recycled clothes, which he unveiled in a small presentation during the couture, included actual fishnet draped into an evening gown, a top of folded antique ribbons and umbrellas remade into a raincoat. For those who feel like feting Margiela on his two decades in fashion, he also created a top fashioned out of a deconstructed disco ball. Now if he's really clever, next season he'll figure out a way to make a dress out of Champagne.
Guy Laroche: With a new designer — Marcel Marongiu — showing his first rtw collection here, Guy Laroche took a step toward moving beyond a recent cycle of turbulence created by a revolving door of designers. Marongiu cleaned the slate, concentrating on no-nonsense skirt suits with strong shoulders. For evening, once the house's bread and butter, he offered some beguiling silky dresses livened up with sequins. For the most part, Marongiu stuck to safe territory, but a bit of high-octane fashion might help to rev up this ailing house's motor.
Roger Vivier: "I liked the idea of having found these buried in an ancient Egyptian queen's tomb," said Bruno Frisoni, creative director of Roger Vivier, when asked what inspired a pair of sandy crocodile heels dusted with golden scales. Those shoes are only a small part of a dizzying panoply of fancy footwear from the house's second couture accessories line, "Exquises Esquisses," or "Exquisite Sketches," which ranges from a kitten heel bedecked with a flamboyant ruffle to a richly hued feathered pump with a floral motif, in a palette that runs from celestial blue to neon pink. But for Frisoni, the heel can be just as wildly decorative as what's up front, mimicking a sprig of coral, say, or studded with a bead of rock crystal, or even three-dimensional and faceted in vibrant lacquer. Highlights from the Vivier handbag collection include a geometric gilded minaudière adorned with clusters of enamel stones, and a soft clutch sporting a flyaway trail of shocking pink chiffon. As Frisoni put it: "It's like something Gloria Swanson would wear — straight out of 'Sunset Boulevard.'"
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews