Anne Valérie Hash spread the love in her couture collection, while Martin Margiela and Guy Laroche's Marcel Marongiu used the opportunity to show their ready-to-wear, replete with deconstructed and no-nonsense looks, respectively.
Anne Valérie Hash: Over the years, Anne Valérie Hash has been a partisan of the masculine-feminine mix, but these days she's giving greater emphasis to the feminine side of that equation. Her spring couture, for example, was dedicated to "love" and offered a fair number of ultralight tulle confections — think translucent gowns — with a variety of shoulder manipulations and multiple origami effects. Glittering Art Deco-inspired embroidery added an element of dash, but it wasn't enough to make Hash's small collection of 14 looks into a sparkling performance.
Maison Martin Margiela: Taking the old and making it new has been a guiding principle for Martin Margiela ever since the secretive Belgian founded his business 20 years ago. The designer's latest witty creations for his so-called "artisanal" ready-to-wear line of recycled clothes, which he unveiled in a small presentation during the couture, included actual fishnet draped into an evening gown, a top of folded antique ribbons and umbrellas remade into a raincoat. For those who feel like feting Margiela on his two decades in fashion, he also created a top fashioned out of a deconstructed disco ball. Now if he's really clever, next season he'll figure out a way to make a dress out of Champagne.
Guy Laroche: With a new designer — Marcel Marongiu — showing his first rtw collection here, Guy Laroche took a step toward moving beyond a recent cycle of turbulence created by a revolving door of designers. Marongiu cleaned the slate, concentrating on no-nonsense skirt suits with strong shoulders. For evening, once the house's bread and butter, he offered some beguiling silky dresses livened up with sequins. For the most part, Marongiu stuck to safe territory, but a bit of high-octane fashion might help to rev up this ailing house's motor.
Roger Vivier: "I liked the idea of having found these buried in an ancient Egyptian queen's tomb," said Bruno Frisoni, creative director of Roger Vivier, when asked what inspired a pair of sandy crocodile heels dusted with golden scales. Those shoes are only a small part of a dizzying panoply of fancy footwear from the house's second couture accessories line, "Exquises Esquisses," or "Exquisite Sketches," which ranges from a kitten heel bedecked with a flamboyant ruffle to a richly hued feathered pump with a floral motif, in a palette that runs from celestial blue to neon pink. But for Frisoni, the heel can be just as wildly decorative as what's up front, mimicking a sprig of coral, say, or studded with a bead of rock crystal, or even three-dimensional and faceted in vibrant lacquer. Highlights from the Vivier handbag collection include a geometric gilded minaudière adorned with clusters of enamel stones, and a soft clutch sporting a flyaway trail of shocking pink chiffon. As Frisoni put it: "It's like something Gloria Swanson would wear — straight out of 'Sunset Boulevard.'"
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye