Anne Valérie Hash spread the love in her couture collection, while Martin Margiela and Guy Laroche's Marcel Marongiu used the opportunity to show their ready-to-wear, replete with deconstructed and no-nonsense looks, respectively.
Anne Valérie Hash: Over the years, Anne Valérie Hash has been a partisan of the masculine-feminine mix, but these days she's giving greater emphasis to the feminine side of that equation. Her spring couture, for example, was dedicated to "love" and offered a fair number of ultralight tulle confections — think translucent gowns — with a variety of shoulder manipulations and multiple origami effects. Glittering Art Deco-inspired embroidery added an element of dash, but it wasn't enough to make Hash's small collection of 14 looks into a sparkling performance.
Maison Martin Margiela: Taking the old and making it new has been a guiding principle for Martin Margiela ever since the secretive Belgian founded his business 20 years ago. The designer's latest witty creations for his so-called "artisanal" ready-to-wear line of recycled clothes, which he unveiled in a small presentation during the couture, included actual fishnet draped into an evening gown, a top of folded antique ribbons and umbrellas remade into a raincoat. For those who feel like feting Margiela on his two decades in fashion, he also created a top fashioned out of a deconstructed disco ball. Now if he's really clever, next season he'll figure out a way to make a dress out of Champagne.
Guy Laroche: With a new designer — Marcel Marongiu — showing his first rtw collection here, Guy Laroche took a step toward moving beyond a recent cycle of turbulence created by a revolving door of designers. Marongiu cleaned the slate, concentrating on no-nonsense skirt suits with strong shoulders. For evening, once the house's bread and butter, he offered some beguiling silky dresses livened up with sequins. For the most part, Marongiu stuck to safe territory, but a bit of high-octane fashion might help to rev up this ailing house's motor.
Roger Vivier: "I liked the idea of having found these buried in an ancient Egyptian queen's tomb," said Bruno Frisoni, creative director of Roger Vivier, when asked what inspired a pair of sandy crocodile heels dusted with golden scales. Those shoes are only a small part of a dizzying panoply of fancy footwear from the house's second couture accessories line, "Exquises Esquisses," or "Exquisite Sketches," which ranges from a kitten heel bedecked with a flamboyant ruffle to a richly hued feathered pump with a floral motif, in a palette that runs from celestial blue to neon pink. But for Frisoni, the heel can be just as wildly decorative as what's up front, mimicking a sprig of coral, say, or studded with a bead of rock crystal, or even three-dimensional and faceted in vibrant lacquer. Highlights from the Vivier handbag collection include a geometric gilded minaudière adorned with clusters of enamel stones, and a soft clutch sporting a flyaway trail of shocking pink chiffon. As Frisoni put it: "It's like something Gloria Swanson would wear — straight out of 'Sunset Boulevard.'"
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)