PARIS — Count on Hussein Chalayan to bring a conceptual and architectural edge to couture week with his debut today at Vionnet, parading a demi-couture range that incorporates laser cutting and electrical wires.“I see beauty in industrial corners and blind spots,” the designer said in front of an inspiration board showing a curved staircase, demolished walls and tubular, corallike beading.The evening-focused collection is to include bias-cut column dresses in multiple layers of organza, and futuristic gowns that exalt the patternmaking of couture, the markings on muslins embroidered by hand.Chalayan has more in common with founder Madeleine Vionnet than one might expect: Like the late designer, he drapes fabrics on small bust forms to invent new shapes and proportions.“You can’t draw certain things. You have to make them and then draw them,” he explained.He’s also a fan of seamlessness. “I’ve spent a lot time in the past getting rid of seams,” said Chalayan, a London-based designer of Turkish Cypriot origin who founded his label in 1993.His arrival at Vionnet coincides with a development push by chairwoman and creative director Goga Ashkenazi, who disclosed plans to establish a Paris hub for the heritage brand that would encompass a store and a mini-museum or library.She is also scouting for locations in New York and London, and plans to relocate the Milan store.“I wanted someone who could give this project all the attention it deserves,” said Ashkenazi, who acquired Vionnet in 2012 from Matteo Marzotto. “He’s very talented and inspiring, and I’ve learned a lot from him,” she added of Chalayan.Demi-couture, which requires only one fitting, is priced from about 3,000 euros to 30,000 euros, or about $4,000 to $40,000 at current exchange.
“I design by visualization. I see things, and most of the time they’re not practical to actually make, and what I’ve found here, it’s like anything’s possible. This is the first time that I’ve made a sole unit in two months. That process usually would take six, so here’s a difference,” said @virgilabloh of the first sneaker sample he created for @louisvuitton, pictured here. Abloh spoke to WWD about his debut collection for Louis Vuitton, creating @kendalljenner’s #metgala outfit and redefining the heritage brand. Read the full story on WWD.com. #wwdfashion (📷: @alfredo_piola)
The world’s largest producer of denim @iskodenim is sharing the strategy behind its product development process. Read our full interview with ISKO’s product development manager Baris Ozden on the company’s extensive research practices, upcoming denim trends and the latest material innovations on WWD.com. #iskodenim
“I genuinely fell in love with water, I fell in love with Fiji, I fell in love with the whole life that we lived for those few months,” says @mrsamclaflin of filming for his new movie “Adrift” with @shailenewoodley. The 31-year-old actor spoke with WWD about his upcoming projects, meeting Jamie Dornan and working with co-star Woodley. #wwdeye (📷: @jamstoker)
3 years ago, fans of the late singer Aaliyah started calling for a collaboration with @maccosmetics. With the strength of social media — including mock ups of products — 25,000 people signed a Change.org petition for a limited-edition collection, and MAC couldn’t ignore the buzz. Tomorrow, MAC will unveil MAC x Aaliyah, a tribute to the singer who passed away nearly 17 years ago. Head to our stories to preview the new collection, which was worked on by Aaliyah’s family and inspired directly by her makeup bag. #wwdbeauty
Artistic director @clarewaightkeller will be dedicating @givenchyofficial’s fall 2018 couture show in Paris on July 1 to house founder Hubert de Givenchy, who passed away in March at age 91. Givenchy said the collection would be “an homage to his iconic creations, technique, and personal lexicon” and a “celebration of his timeless elegance and grace.” Head to WWD.com to read more. #wwdfashion (📷: Delphine Achard)
La Double J made a name for itself with its vintage-inspired prints, but for resort, designer JJ Martin has ventured into new territory: enter rich jewel toned solids and decadent embellishment, in the form of appliqués, crystals and sequins. #wwdfashion #resort19 #ladoublej
This Just In: J. Crew Group has named Johanna Uurasjarvi as its chief design officer.
Uurasjarvi succeeds Somsack Sikhounmuong, who left the company last September. Tap the link in bio for the full report. #wwdnews
“She came into my hotel room and she was like, ‘I have Chanel and Christian Dior.’ She was like, ‘Chanel likes you.’ And I was like, ‘I’m going to start crying,’” breakout star Maddie Hasson tells WWD of her styling sessions Molly Dickson. “I really like classic, elegant things. I love the way Anna Wintour dresses.” Read more about Hasson’s role in @impulseseries on wwd.com. (📸: @jgreenery ) #wwdeye
@virgilabloh revealed he's working with Australian stylist and
Vogue Australia fashion director @christinecentenera for his debut @louisvuitton men's collection, which will be presented in Paris on June 21. Centenera met Abloh while both working with Kanye West, where she consulted on his all his runway collections since his debut spring 2012 women's wear show. Read the full story on WWD.com. #wwdfashion #wwdnews (📷: @asussmanphoto)