PARIS — Count on Hussein Chalayan to bring a conceptual and architectural edge to couture week with his debut today at Vionnet, parading a demi-couture range that incorporates laser cutting and electrical wires.“I see beauty in industrial corners and blind spots,” the designer said in front of an inspiration board showing a curved staircase, demolished walls and tubular, corallike beading.The evening-focused collection is to include bias-cut column dresses in multiple layers of organza, and futuristic gowns that exalt the patternmaking of couture, the markings on muslins embroidered by hand.Chalayan has more in common with founder Madeleine Vionnet than one might expect: Like the late designer, he drapes fabrics on small bust forms to invent new shapes and proportions.“You can’t draw certain things. You have to make them and then draw them,” he explained.He’s also a fan of seamlessness. “I’ve spent a lot time in the past getting rid of seams,” said Chalayan, a London-based designer of Turkish Cypriot origin who founded his label in 1993.His arrival at Vionnet coincides with a development push by chairwoman and creative director Goga Ashkenazi, who disclosed plans to establish a Paris hub for the heritage brand that would encompass a store and a mini-museum or library.She is also scouting for locations in New York and London, and plans to relocate the Milan store.“I wanted someone who could give this project all the attention it deserves,” said Ashkenazi, who acquired Vionnet in 2012 from Matteo Marzotto. “He’s very talented and inspiring, and I’ve learned a lot from him,” she added of Chalayan.Demi-couture, which requires only one fitting, is priced from about 3,000 euros to 30,000 euros, or about $4,000 to $40,000 at current exchange.
To celebrate Pride 2018, @themarcjacobs released the #GratefulNotHateful campaign, a social media initiative aimed at extending Pride beyond the parade. Inspired by Jacobs’ everyday outlook, the campaign features Jacobs along with a group of models and social media stars who are members and supporters of the LGBT community, all seen wearing @marcbeauty’s Highliner Gel Eye Crayons in colors of the rainbow. Head to our Instagram stories to see close-ups of the liner. #wwdbeauty
Virgil Abloh’s dad Nee and Don Crawley, cofounder of RSVP Gallery, were some of the hometown crew at the Chicago-born designer’s debut show for Louis Vuitton. (📸: @jdiderich ) #wwdmens #louisvuitton #virgilabloh
About last night: @marycharteris and @adwoaaboah hit up Hyde Park for the Serpentine Galleries’ annual summer party held in partnership with @chanelofficial. Head to WWD.com to see more photos. #wwdfashion
“This is Paris, my first show. I’m all about democracy. If some kid shows up, flew from New Jersey to just be around, let’s get him a seat.” — @virgilabloh tells WWD’s @jdiderich ahead of his first show for @louisvuitton men’s. (📸: @alfredo_piola ) #wwdmens #virgilabloh #louisvuitton
“Kate Spade was a true fashion icon who brought joy to the lives of women around the world, and inspired women to live life to the fullest. We are dedicated to carrying on her legacy,” said Anna Bakst, brand president and chief executive officer of @katespadeny. The Kate Spade Foundation announced that it will be donating $1 million to suicide prevention and mental health awareness in tribute to the recent death of Kate Spade. Read more on WWD.com. #wwdnews (📷: @chinseephoto)
A first look at @virgilabloh’s sneakers for @louisvuitton. Abloh spoke to WWD about his debut collection for Louis Vuitton, creating @kendalljenner’s #metgala outfit and redefining the heritage brand. Read the full story on WWD.com. #wwdfashion 📷: @alfredo_piola)
The world’s largest producer of denim @iskodenim is sharing the strategy behind its product development process. Read our full interview with ISKO’s product development manager Baris Ozden on the company’s extensive research practices, upcoming denim trends and the latest material innovations on WWD.com. #iskodenim