PARIS — Count on Hussein Chalayan to bring a conceptual and architectural edge to couture week with his debut today at Vionnet, parading a demi-couture range that incorporates laser cutting and electrical wires.
“I see beauty in industrial corners and blind spots,” the designer said in front of an inspiration board showing a curved staircase, demolished walls and tubular, corallike beading.
The evening-focused collection is to include bias-cut column dresses in multiple layers of organza, and futuristic gowns that exalt the patternmaking of couture, the markings on muslins embroidered by hand.
Chalayan has more in common with founder Madeleine Vionnet than one might expect: Like the late designer, he drapes fabrics on small bust forms to invent new shapes and proportions.
“You can’t draw certain things. You have to make them and then draw them,” he explained.
He’s also a fan of seamlessness. “I’ve spent a lot time in the past getting rid of seams,” said Chalayan, a London-based designer of Turkish Cypriot origin who founded his label in 1993.
His arrival at Vionnet coincides with a development push by chairwoman and creative director Goga Ashkenazi, who disclosed plans to establish a Paris hub for the heritage brand that would encompass a store and a mini-museum or library.
She is also scouting for locations in New York and London, and plans to relocate the Milan store.
“I wanted someone who could give this project all the attention it deserves,” said Ashkenazi, who acquired Vionnet in 2012 from Matteo Marzotto. “He’s very talented and inspiring, and I’ve learned a lot from him,” she added of Chalayan.
Demi-couture, which requires only one fitting, is priced from about 3,000 euros to 30,000 euros, or about $4,000 to $40,000 at current exchange.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)