PARIS — How were the out-of-this-world hair and makeup looks conjured up for couture-clad models on catwalks for the spring 2011 season, which ended here Wednesday?
At Valentino, David Hamilton photographs inspired Guido Palau for the coifs. He put Redken thickening lotion on models’ hair, parted it in the center and wove two braids along the sides of heads. At the back, Palau fashioned neat buns. “It’s very Seventies, romantic and young,” he said.
Another artist — French illustrator René Gruau — was channeled for beauty (and fashion) at Christian Dior.
“His drawings were very unfinished. It was sometimes a stroke and that was the whole hairdo,” said hairstylist Orlando Pita. “So what I am trying to do is put the hair up, to kind of give those painterly strokes with the brush. I don’t want to roll the hair. I don’t want to bun it. I don’t want to do a French twist. I don’t want the old-fashioned ways of putting hair up. It’s all about flowing movement, and then everybody has different versions of that.”
Likewise, models at Dior had varied makeup looks created by Pat McGrath, save for their mouths, which were all painted the same orange red hue. Skin was paled down and black eyeliner applied to peepers. She called the result “supergraphic, super-Dior.”
Meanwhile, at Giorgio Armani Privé, precious stones were the starting point for both the fashion collection and the makeup, created by Linda Cantello. Opting for a modern take on couture, for lips she eschewed the traditional red and went instead for purple, made with a mix of an Armani lipstick and a pigment from the brand’s spring collection. Faces were primarily matte, save for a small crystal applied on each model’s mouth. “Just to catch the light,” she said.
Oribe devised hairdos that wrapped around heads.
“It’s kind of crisscrossed and just very polished and simple,” he explained. To achieve the look, Oribe used his eponymous brand’s Soft Lacquer and Superfine Hairspray.
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