VERNON, Calif. — After a three-year hiatus, BCBGeneration is reviving denim as a way to grow its young contemporary lifestyle business.
BCBGeneration, the more casual and less expensive offshoot of BCBG Max Azria, is appealing to its twentysomething customers with dip-dyed skinny jeans, stonewashed trousers, colored denim shorts and other fashion pieces that retail for between $58 and $118. It introduced 12 stockkeeping units this past fall in its 14 freestanding stores and with retail partners Bloomingdale’s, Lord & Taylor and Dillard’s. It will begin wholesaling this spring to retailers including Macy’s, with almost double the number of denim sku’s. In addition, the company will add T-shirts and fleece, ranging from $18 boxy long-sleeve tops to $38 printed rayon tanks and $58 hoodies. All the styles are designed for a fashion fan who aspires to shop pricy designers while staying casual and comfortable.
Joyce Azria, BCBGeneration’s 30-year-old creative director, noted that, with limited disposable income, customers are mixing new items with the jeans with which they’re highly familiar. As an example, she said, “they were buying this [BCBGeneration] trench to wear over cute bell-bottoms.”
Attuned to its customers’ lifestyle, which is filled with first jobs, dating and parties, BCBGeneration named all the jeans after boys. For instance, the straight leg is called Riley, while the bell-bottom is named Jacob.
“The concept is to have a crush on your denim so we named it after boys,” said Marine Azria, Joyce’s younger sister, who works at the brand as a stylist.
The five-person denim team is led by Sandrine Abessera, a designer who previously worked with jeans guru Paul Guez at Antik Denim, Yanuk and Taverniti So. Hiring denim experts who design and create washes across the hall from Joyce Azria’s office here is a change from BCBGeneration’s last venture in making jeans with sportswear designers. It also learned to lower its prices from its previous range that started at $78 and went up to $150.
The biggest challenge in BCBGeneration’s second attempt was “technically making the jeans at the pricing that we wanted,” Joyce Azria said. Even her father, BCBG Max Azria Group founder, chairman and chief executive officer Max Azria, emphasized that pricing and production should be meticulously handled, she said. “There’s such a perceived value in denim,” she said, noting that the jeans are made in Asia to help keep prices low.
“We’re not going to pretend we can go up against Citizens of Humanity and the big people,” said Stephen Budd, president of BCBGeneration. “A lot of vendors in this price point had schmaltzy and embellished [looks]. That’s not us. We’re clean and fresh and new at a good price.”
In its inaugural season, denim made up 10 percent of BCBGeneration’s total sales, which are estimated at $100 million, or a 10th of BCBG Max Azria Group’s total revenue of $1 billion. Azria’s goal for the T-shirt and denim offerings is to contribute as much as 25 percent to total sales in the spring.
To spur sales, BCBGeneration mixed denim for the first time in its spring ad campaign populated with cool chicks lounging in open-weave sweaters, skinny jeans and denim shorts rolled up to show a lot of leg. The brand is also planning to sell its jeans among leading denim brands at the Project trade show in Las Vegas in February.
No matter how much the denim business grows, Joyce Azria insists on merchandising it at retail with the rest of BCBGeneration, which encompasses shoes, bags, belts and jewelry. Gone is any notion of stand-alone denim stores.
After all, she said, “Our step into denim is one big step into understanding [our customer’s] lifestyle.”
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty