LOS ANGELES — Southern California jeans manufacturers shopping the Kingpins trade show turned their attention from dark, clean styles to more novel treatments mimicking leather and plastic, along with distressed dungarees and colored jeans with bright trimmings.
Designers from brands such as Brown Label, Guess, Seven For All Mankind, True Religion, Monarchy, Kasil and Agave scouted the show at Marvimon House here on Sept. 10 and 11 for materials to build their fall 2009 collections. Alexandre Caugant, the Vernon, Calif.-based designer of sportswear label AC Collection and denim line AC Jeans, ordered vintage-style fabric from Japanese mill Kurabo for a new line dubbed Alex’s Jeans, marked by tears and aged washes.
Among the 13 exhibitors at Kingpins, Argentina’s Apholos unveiled a two-tone enamel trim that can be finished in neon, metallic or iridescent hues. Rainbow Textiles Ltd., Kurabo’s corduroy division, offered warp slub cords and cotton-and-polyester cords for designers preferring vintage looks, in addition to a cotton-and-rayon corduroy that glistened with a luxurious shine.
To expand designers’ options for fabrics, Cone Denim, Tejidos Royo and UCO-Raymond exhibited for the first time. Novelty was emphasized in the Tejidos Royo offering that included a foam finish that imparts multidimensional coloring on whiskers, Tencel that can be tinted in a rainbow of colors, piece-dyed stretch sateen resembling leather and a cotton and Lycra spandex denim that resembles black plastic.
“Basic is finished,” said José Royo, sales director for the Spanish company. “Basic is denim in China. You have to do something different.”
Differentiation for A2 Asdrubal JA SA, a factory based in Portugal, involved promoting its ability to manufacture eco-friendly fashions using organic cotton, linen and Merino wool.
“We are trying to get new customers,” said representative Maria João Oliveira, noting that the U.S. represents one-quarter of A2’s business.
Cone Denim used black or gray fill, instead of white, in its fabric in a bid to appeal to designers who prefer denim to look and feel like something else. The Greensboro, N.C.-based company said designers also gravitated toward lighter fabrics, such as its S gene, which is made of two yarn components spun together and weighs as little as eight ounces a square yard.
At Belgium’s UCO-Raymond Ltd., new offerings included pima cotton and two stretch fabrics, XFit, made with Invista’s T-400, and Dow’s XLA, which features a warped stretch. Operating a mill called Union Cotonniere in Rockingham, N.C., UCO-Raymond said it is beginning to notice a resurgence in its domestic business as American designers contend with a high euro, rising expenses in Asia and hefty shipping and landing fees for foreign-made fabrics.
“They’re yearning for U.S. fabrics to be right,” said Carrie Eddmenson, a consultant for UCO-Raymond.
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For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews