LOS ANGELES — Southern California jeans manufacturers shopping the Kingpins trade show turned their attention from dark, clean styles to more novel treatments mimicking leather and plastic, along with distressed dungarees and colored jeans with bright trimmings.
Designers from brands such as Brown Label, Guess, Seven For All Mankind, True Religion, Monarchy, Kasil and Agave scouted the show at Marvimon House here on Sept. 10 and 11 for materials to build their fall 2009 collections. Alexandre Caugant, the Vernon, Calif.-based designer of sportswear label AC Collection and denim line AC Jeans, ordered vintage-style fabric from Japanese mill Kurabo for a new line dubbed Alex’s Jeans, marked by tears and aged washes.
Among the 13 exhibitors at Kingpins, Argentina’s Apholos unveiled a two-tone enamel trim that can be finished in neon, metallic or iridescent hues. Rainbow Textiles Ltd., Kurabo’s corduroy division, offered warp slub cords and cotton-and-polyester cords for designers preferring vintage looks, in addition to a cotton-and-rayon corduroy that glistened with a luxurious shine.
To expand designers’ options for fabrics, Cone Denim, Tejidos Royo and UCO-Raymond exhibited for the first time. Novelty was emphasized in the Tejidos Royo offering that included a foam finish that imparts multidimensional coloring on whiskers, Tencel that can be tinted in a rainbow of colors, piece-dyed stretch sateen resembling leather and a cotton and Lycra spandex denim that resembles black plastic.
“Basic is finished,” said José Royo, sales director for the Spanish company. “Basic is denim in China. You have to do something different.”
Differentiation for A2 Asdrubal JA SA, a factory based in Portugal, involved promoting its ability to manufacture eco-friendly fashions using organic cotton, linen and Merino wool.
“We are trying to get new customers,” said representative Maria João Oliveira, noting that the U.S. represents one-quarter of A2’s business.
Cone Denim used black or gray fill, instead of white, in its fabric in a bid to appeal to designers who prefer denim to look and feel like something else. The Greensboro, N.C.-based company said designers also gravitated toward lighter fabrics, such as its S gene, which is made of two yarn components spun together and weighs as little as eight ounces a square yard.
At Belgium’s UCO-Raymond Ltd., new offerings included pima cotton and two stretch fabrics, XFit, made with Invista’s T-400, and Dow’s XLA, which features a warped stretch. Operating a mill called Union Cotonniere in Rockingham, N.C., UCO-Raymond said it is beginning to notice a resurgence in its domestic business as American designers contend with a high euro, rising expenses in Asia and hefty shipping and landing fees for foreign-made fabrics.
“They’re yearning for U.S. fabrics to be right,” said Carrie Eddmenson, a consultant for UCO-Raymond.
Taking the final spot on the mens’ portion of New York Fashion Week calendar next month will be none other than @tomford. Though he’s shown his men’s wear in New York in the past, this will mark the first time the designer has shown his men’s collection alone during New York Fashion Week: Men’s. His runway show will debut on February 6 at the Park Avenue Armory. #wwdfashion
London-based couture house @ralphandrusso has certainly been in the spotlight, having its dresses worn by @beyonce, Angelina Jolie, Meghan Markle in her engagement photos and more. For couture, Tamara Ralph focused on ornamentation — think: feathers with chain mail, jet embroidery and clusters of pearls and crystals. See the rest of the collection on WWD.com #wwdfashion #couture (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
Minnie Mouse celebrated her 90th birthday by getting her own star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. For her celebratory luncheon, @coach’s creative director @stuartvevers dressed her in a custom made prairie dress, complete with Vever’s take on the polka dot – black sequined versions – under a cropped motorcycle jacket. The designer also put his own mark on Minnie’s classic red shoes, infusing the color with sparkles and adding some Coach crystals. “We chose colors that were very Minnie and also represented quintessential Coach elements,” said Vevers. #wwdfashion #nationalpolkadotday (📷: George Chinsee)
@nickjonas is unveiling his first-ever apparel collection through a partnership with John Varvatos. The limited-edition capsule, which makes its debut in spring, also marks the first time the designer has collaborated with anyone on a line. “The process in working with Nick is amazing. It’s inspiring to be around someone who is not only connected with the trade that they do, but also with what’s happening in the environment around him, and how that connects to what we do with style,” said Varvatos. (RG: @johnvarvatos) #wwdfashion
@margotrobbie steps out onto the red carpet wearing @miumiu. The actress is nominated for “Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role” in “I, Tonya” at the #SagAwards. (📷: Stewart Cook) #wwdfashion
For @massimogiorgetti of @msgm, the Nineties are his favorite decade. “They had a huge impact on my personal growth. What I like of the Nineties is that they are not so precise in terms of style as other decades…there was actually a bit of everything,” he said. As seen on MSGM’s Spring 2018 show: tie-dye and a bit of grunge, two styles that are synonymous with the decade #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @kukukuba)