LOS ANGELES — Southern California jeans manufacturers shopping the Kingpins trade show turned their attention from dark, clean styles to more novel treatments mimicking leather and plastic, along with distressed dungarees and colored jeans with bright trimmings.
Designers from brands such as Brown Label, Guess, Seven For All Mankind, True Religion, Monarchy, Kasil and Agave scouted the show at Marvimon House here on Sept. 10 and 11 for materials to build their fall 2009 collections. Alexandre Caugant, the Vernon, Calif.-based designer of sportswear label AC Collection and denim line AC Jeans, ordered vintage-style fabric from Japanese mill Kurabo for a new line dubbed Alex’s Jeans, marked by tears and aged washes.
Among the 13 exhibitors at Kingpins, Argentina’s Apholos unveiled a two-tone enamel trim that can be finished in neon, metallic or iridescent hues. Rainbow Textiles Ltd., Kurabo’s corduroy division, offered warp slub cords and cotton-and-polyester cords for designers preferring vintage looks, in addition to a cotton-and-rayon corduroy that glistened with a luxurious shine.
To expand designers’ options for fabrics, Cone Denim, Tejidos Royo and UCO-Raymond exhibited for the first time. Novelty was emphasized in the Tejidos Royo offering that included a foam finish that imparts multidimensional coloring on whiskers, Tencel that can be tinted in a rainbow of colors, piece-dyed stretch sateen resembling leather and a cotton and Lycra spandex denim that resembles black plastic.
“Basic is finished,” said José Royo, sales director for the Spanish company. “Basic is denim in China. You have to do something different.”
Differentiation for A2 Asdrubal JA SA, a factory based in Portugal, involved promoting its ability to manufacture eco-friendly fashions using organic cotton, linen and Merino wool.
“We are trying to get new customers,” said representative Maria João Oliveira, noting that the U.S. represents one-quarter of A2’s business.
Cone Denim used black or gray fill, instead of white, in its fabric in a bid to appeal to designers who prefer denim to look and feel like something else. The Greensboro, N.C.-based company said designers also gravitated toward lighter fabrics, such as its S gene, which is made of two yarn components spun together and weighs as little as eight ounces a square yard.
At Belgium’s UCO-Raymond Ltd., new offerings included pima cotton and two stretch fabrics, XFit, made with Invista’s T-400, and Dow’s XLA, which features a warped stretch. Operating a mill called Union Cotonniere in Rockingham, N.C., UCO-Raymond said it is beginning to notice a resurgence in its domestic business as American designers contend with a high euro, rising expenses in Asia and hefty shipping and landing fees for foreign-made fabrics.
“They’re yearning for U.S. fabrics to be right,” said Carrie Eddmenson, a consultant for UCO-Raymond.
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye