LOS ANGELES — Southern California jeans manufacturers shopping the Kingpins trade show turned their attention from dark, clean styles to more novel treatments mimicking leather and plastic, along with distressed dungarees and colored jeans with bright trimmings.
Designers from brands such as Brown Label, Guess, Seven For All Mankind, True Religion, Monarchy, Kasil and Agave scouted the show at Marvimon House here on Sept. 10 and 11 for materials to build their fall 2009 collections. Alexandre Caugant, the Vernon, Calif.-based designer of sportswear label AC Collection and denim line AC Jeans, ordered vintage-style fabric from Japanese mill Kurabo for a new line dubbed Alex’s Jeans, marked by tears and aged washes.
Among the 13 exhibitors at Kingpins, Argentina’s Apholos unveiled a two-tone enamel trim that can be finished in neon, metallic or iridescent hues. Rainbow Textiles Ltd., Kurabo’s corduroy division, offered warp slub cords and cotton-and-polyester cords for designers preferring vintage looks, in addition to a cotton-and-rayon corduroy that glistened with a luxurious shine.
To expand designers’ options for fabrics, Cone Denim, Tejidos Royo and UCO-Raymond exhibited for the first time. Novelty was emphasized in the Tejidos Royo offering that included a foam finish that imparts multidimensional coloring on whiskers, Tencel that can be tinted in a rainbow of colors, piece-dyed stretch sateen resembling leather and a cotton and Lycra spandex denim that resembles black plastic.
“Basic is finished,” said José Royo, sales director for the Spanish company. “Basic is denim in China. You have to do something different.”
Differentiation for A2 Asdrubal JA SA, a factory based in Portugal, involved promoting its ability to manufacture eco-friendly fashions using organic cotton, linen and Merino wool.
“We are trying to get new customers,” said representative Maria João Oliveira, noting that the U.S. represents one-quarter of A2’s business.
Cone Denim used black or gray fill, instead of white, in its fabric in a bid to appeal to designers who prefer denim to look and feel like something else. The Greensboro, N.C.-based company said designers also gravitated toward lighter fabrics, such as its S gene, which is made of two yarn components spun together and weighs as little as eight ounces a square yard.
At Belgium’s UCO-Raymond Ltd., new offerings included pima cotton and two stretch fabrics, XFit, made with Invista’s T-400, and Dow’s XLA, which features a warped stretch. Operating a mill called Union Cotonniere in Rockingham, N.C., UCO-Raymond said it is beginning to notice a resurgence in its domestic business as American designers contend with a high euro, rising expenses in Asia and hefty shipping and landing fees for foreign-made fabrics.
“They’re yearning for U.S. fabrics to be right,” said Carrie Eddmenson, a consultant for UCO-Raymond.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)