LOS ANGELES — With higher budgets but still focused on price, buyers shopped for novelty items and fashionable basics at the contemporary fashion market that ended here last week.
Merchants from Macy’s, Nordstrom, Holt Renfrew, American Rag & Cie, Amazon.com and a slew of specialty stores searched for upbeat trends and fanciful details, such as sequins, fringe, cashmere and fur, as they checked out the holiday collections at Designers & Agents, Brighte Companies and the showrooms in Cooper Design Space, New Mart and California Market Center.
Despite persistent worries about the economy, several retailers said they had survived the worst of financial travails to increase their orders from last year.
Wendy Foster, who operates four locations in the Santa Barbara, Calif., area described her mood as “wishful,” although she worried that her business wasn’t completely back on solid footing.
“It’s been a roller coaster,” she said. “As of today, the [Montecito] store is up 9 percent over last year for the month. Last month, we were down, and the month before we were up 50 percent.”
Overall, the exuberance of prerecession seasons hadn’t returned. Retailers were mostly buying close to season, trying to play it safe with designs that wouldn’t scare away shoppersand aiming for price points that would satisfy customers who remain tightfisted.
“Everything is the price, the price, the price,” Foster said.
Lesley Grant, owner of home-based jewelry and gifts enterprise Rocket & Rosie in Dana Point, Calif., said her customers’ threshold for apparel purchases was $100. “The times, what they are right now, people are looking for nice quality for a good price,” she said.
The market was an opportunity for new lines to launch for the holiday season. Bliss Lau, the New York-based jewelry designer, unveiled goatskin leather wallets and handbags she designed for Dakota Collective, the higher-priced brand that’s an offshoot of young contemporary line BB Dakota. Wholesaling from $50 to $150, Bliss Lau for Dakota Collective consists of wallets with finger straps, bucket bags festooned with Lau’s signature chains and small cross-body bags slashed to reveal vents.
Designers did well with jersey and fleece basics that had a fashionable twist.
The Furies — a Venice, Calif.-based line launched by former Levi’s designer Rikke Korff this past spring — placed angular cap sleeves on a V-neck T-shirt dress and curved the hem on a tank top; both wholesale for less than $36.
Los Angeles-based Kill City exposed the back on a $46 French terry sweatshirt accentuated with poplin shoulder pads. Hy & Dot, a lower-priced line from Rory Beca designer Rory Edelman in Los Angeles, adorned scoopneck tanks and sweatshirts wholesaling for $36 and $42, respectively, with sequins.
Pete, also from Los Angeles, developed a new angora-Modal knit fabric for long-sleeve tunics and racer-back tanks wholesaling for less than $42. New York’s Foley + Corinna enhanced a $146 long-sleeve fleece shirt with a removable vest made of netting trimmed with feathers and beads.
Bright colors resonated with retailers. Wayuu Taya, a South American line of cotton shoulder bags hand-knit in eye-catching yellow, pink and red, attracted retailers with its $60 wholesale price and ethnic motifs. New York’s Callula Lillibelle offered a dip-dyed open-back silk dress for $175, and Los Angeles-based Robert Rodriguez displayed a $270 scallop silk shift dress in bright red.
“People have been investing in their staples in the last couple of years,” said Marco Lebel, vice president of sales at Robert Rodriguez. “Novelty and color are really the strengths right now.”
Deanna Vay, an assistant to the owner at Gracie & Co., a women’s clothing boutique in La Jolla, Calif., noticed a move toward luxury fabrics and detailing with sequins, fringe, cashmere and fur. “People are tired of being down and conservative,” she said.
Jean leggings and cargo pants topped the list of bestsellers for denim companies. It Jeans received favorable responses for its twill cargos retailing for less than $100, while Hudson Jeans pushed more edgy looks with harem cargo pants washed in an army green tint or trimmed with leather, retailing for $325 or $395, respectively.
ABS by Allen Schwartz confirmed the Army trend with military accents in cargo pants as well as narrow skirts.
Style New York updated classics to keep its missy clients happy while keeping retail prices between $30 and $110. “People are looking for colors, and trying to stay away from black,” said Tal Herzel, a sales representative for Style New York.
Among the 29 vendors at the Focus show was Ximena Valero, a Los Angeles-based designer who previously worked for Victoria’s Secret. She appealed to buyers with transformable pieces retailing from $120 for a tunic to about $450 for a long draped dress. Demonstrating the various adjustments on her own royal blue jumper, which morphed from a strapless dress to one with draped sleeves with a twist of a panel, Valero attributed her growing sales in Russia, Mexico and across the U.S. to the versatility of her designs. “There are at least 10 ways to wear each thing,” she said.
@kering_official is spinning off its stake in puma in an effort to focus on its luxury brands, the brand operator announced yesterday. “We are proud to have supported the turnaround of Puma, which now has unrivaled capabilities to take full advantage of the specific dynamics of its global markets and is poised to achieve substantial growth,” said François-Henri Pinault, Kering’s chief executive officer and chairman. Artémis will become a “long-term strategic shareholder” of Puma with a 29 percent stake. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
The fashion world mourns for celebrated street style photographer, Nabile Quenum, who died at age 32 in Paris.
Quenum, creator of the fashion blog “J’ai Perdu Ma Veste,” was a fashion week fixture, and regularly shot for New York magazine’s The Cut, among other outlets, and brands such as Louis Vuitton, Moncler and Adidas. He was also actively involved in the #NoFreePhotos initiative, which kicked off in the fall. Read more about Quenum in @kbsmoke's story on WWD.com. #wwdnews
@verwanggang and @maisonladuree have teamed up on a dessert collab called Vera Wang Pour Ladurée. The collection, which launched this week, features a specialty macaroon, as well as a wedding cake inspired by one of the designer’s gowns. “I could not imagine a more delicate or sophisticated creation to grace any couple’s celebration,” said Wang. #wwdfashion
“I’m Russian and I love to use all these little tricks that I got from my grandma or my mom. We didn’t have a lot of money for creams or anything like that so we would use a garden as a beauty treatment regime. We’d put cucumber in the fridge and do a cucumber mask,” says model @irinashayk on one of her beauty hacks. WWD asked celebs what their go-to self-care rituals are. See what Naomie Harris, Freida Pinto and more said on WWD.com. #wwdeye #wwdbeauty (📷: @zefashioninsider)
Exclusive: @viktorandrolf are teaming up with @Zalando on a collection made from leftover clothing. The lineup, which lands at the retailer February 1, includes 17 pieces adorned with sliced up and repurposed overstock from the retailer’s private label collection. Pictured here is a look from the collection –– see more on WWD.com. #wwdfashion #wwdnews
@duewestnyc is the newest bar joining the collection of intimate neighborhood-focused spaces in the West Village. The cocktail menu, which includes bitters and syrups made in-house, offers a “Build Your Own Old-Fashioned” – like the one pictured here – where guests can choose from a list of spirits and unexpected sugars and bitters. #wwdeye
Spotted at last night’s National Board of Review gala in NYC: Angelina Jolie. Jolie – along with Meryl Streep, @lupitanyongo and more – continued the all-black dress code from Sunday’s Golden Globes. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)