WEST HOLLYWOOD — Philippe Naouri, the founding designer of Antik Denim and Pratt’s Motor Spirit, is hoping the third time is the charm for his latest premium denim label, Artisan de Luxe.
Launching for fall, Artisan de Luxe is Naouri’s interpretation of jeans and sportswear handcrafted for a bohemian lifestyle. T-shirts and waffle-knit thermal tops appear cobbled together through enzyme washes and rope stitching. Hoodies are accented with fang-shaped bone zipper pulls and studs. Washed-leather waistcoats highlight a crisscross back. Jeans leggings are coated in a gold-tinted wax, and black denim cutoff shorts are embroidered with skulls and crossbones.
“It’s like vintage nouveau,” Naouri said during an interview at Artisan de Luxe’s headquarters on Melrose Avenue, a couple of doors away from its flagship that opened in July. “We want to bring the one-of-a-kind pieces to everybody.”
Despite the handcrafted details, Artisan prices were kept under control, thanks to the selection of factories in Los Angeles and Mexico to help complete the finishing. Wholesale prices for bottoms start at $79 for jeans leggings and run up to $109 for styles accentuated with hand-sewn patches. The prices for sportswear are $24 for T-shirts and scarves, $49 for dresses, $49 to $59 for hoodies, $52 for button-up shirts and $100 to $1,000 for sterling silver necklaces and cocktail rings dotted with hand-cut diamonds.
The debut collection consists of 80 pieces, including 15 men’s denim styles in skinny and straight legs and 14 women’s jeans in skinny, boot-cut, flare, boyfriend and legging styles. Half of the wholesale business will come from denim. Leather pants, wholesaling for $275, are set to make their debut this holiday, and washed canvas sneakers, priced at $25, are in the works for next spring.
“We still keep the prices down because of the economy,” Naouri said.
Times have changed dramatically since 2004, when Naouri helped kick off the craze for elaborately embellished back pockets on $300 jeans at Antik Denim with Alexandre Caugant. Two years ago, he predicted the moto-inspired trend when he designed motorcycle-style jeans at Pratt’s Motor Spirit, his first solo venture after Antik. After a business relationship soured and forced him to close Pratt’s, Naouri teamed with Jay Furrow, the former chief executive officer of Joe’s Jeans, to launch Artisan de Luxe.
Retailers that have already ordered Artisan de Luxe include Atrium in New York, Lulu in Miami, Fred Segal Fun in Santa Monica, Calif., and Kitson and Politix in Los Angeles. Furrow said he has lined up foreign distribution in countries such as Japan, Germany, Italy, Russia and Canada.
From overseeing America’s fastest-growing speciality retailers to codifying cool, WWD talked to the women who are leading the way for the future of beauty. Check out our Instagram Stories to see how these women built today and are creating tomorrow. (📸: @hannah_khymych) #wwdbeauty
For @laperlalingerie's spring 2018 show, the brand chose to host their event at @thevenetianmacao. With Chinese megastars @bingbing_fan and @hubing in attendance, La Perla debuted a rock ‘n’ roll-inspired collection. The show marked the start of Sands Macao Fashion Week, which runs from October 19 to 24 — the city’s first such event. Pictured here are models backstage with glimmering eyes. #wwdfashion (📷: Cheuk-Yin To)
Trending for spring 2018: top stitch design. Gone are the days of stitch just for seams — designers are using the once-minimal detail to create strong decorative elements. (📷: Paola Testa; Styled by @andrew_shang) #wwdfashion
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)