VENICE — “Venice is like eating an entire box of chocolate liqueurs in one go,” Truman Capote once said. And so it was with the Diesel show, held at the Venetian Arsenal on Thursday night.
Fashion, music, video art — they all merged into a spectacular, over-the-top event celebrating the first collection designed by Diesel artistic director Nicola Formichetti, who joined the Italian company a year ago.
“This is not just a runway show; this is what we want to be in the next 10 years,” said Diesel founder Renzo Rosso. “We want to be the contemporary alternative to the world of luxury — no more frivolous things. We want to deliver a very precise image.”
“This is a foundational collection,” said Formichetti, who organized the lineup into three different blocks, focused on Diesel’s signature elements: leather, denim and military references. See the Full Run of Show Here >>
The show opened with sexy chicks in leather zipped dresses embellished with metallic pieces in the shape of Venice’s signature lion and rock ’n’ roll guys in biker jackets and skinny pants. The extensive denim section ranged from traditional classic jean outfits to Nineties-inspired slouchy trousers and a number of laser-cut pieces, which Formichetti described as “denim couture.” The military group included parkas with shearling inserts and power coats paired with colorful sweaters in geometric patterns.
“There is everything, from classic to sexy, but it’s all so wearable,” said Formichetti, who tapped American rapper Brooke Candy to perform live before the surprise show finale: The models took the runway wearing balaclavas decorated with colorful Mohawks and Mickey Mouse ears.
“It’s so cool. I love Renzo, I love everything he does,” said Courtney Love, who was among the celebrities attending the event. “I’m wearing Diesel tonight even if it’s probably more for my daughter than for me,” she said with a laugh. The rock star, who will play in London in May and who is finishing a book, revealed she is going to launch her own fashion line. “I’d love Renzo to produce it,” she said.
Other guests included Dree Hemingway, Italian actresses Asia Argento and Cristiana Capotondi, musicians Elisa and Marracash, and American actor Colton Haynes, who portrays superhero Roy Harper in the TV series “Arrow.” “It’s such a work of art — the music, the flames at the entrance, the location itself,” said Haynes, in Venice for the first time. “I’m going to take three months of vacation to explore the world — in particular, I want to go all over Europe and I want to visit Shanghai.”
Dsquared2’s Dean and Dan Caten, Viktor & Rolf’s Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, along with Marni’s Consuelo Castiglioni, the creative directors of the brands under Diesel’s parent company OTB, also joined Rosso in Venice for the show.
“When Renzo texted to invite me to the event, he wrote: ‘Consuelo come, it’s the most important event of my life,’” Castiglioni revealed.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast