On and around the spring 2018 runways, denim was a key story in Paris. The iconic fabric was seen in every shape, color and mood imaginable. For some, like Belgian brands Filles à Papa and Los Angeles based Jean Atelier, it was a question of style; for others, it was a space for innovation as seen with MYR and François Girbaud's capsule for Closed, the brand he founded in 1968.Los Angeles-based Jean Atelier, the brainchild of Citizens of Humanity founder Jerome Dahan and designer Noam Hanoch, is creating newness in the designer denim category. The brand, launched this fall exclusively at Barneys New York and FWRD Elyse Walker, was opening up to expanded distribution for spring and staged its first presentation in Paris. Inspired by denim’s Seventies heyday with just a soupçon of a Nineties edge, the collection focused on sexy, form-fitting shapes and craft finishes.Bustier bodices, patchwork cropped tops and flared jeans were a large part of the lineup, in which standouts included items using an extinct mattress-making technique to create a square grid of seams on wide jeans and a fitted waistcoat. Just a season in, the label’s collar-shaped “Flip” waistline has already become something of a signature, with influencers including Olivia Culpo spotted wearing the design, available for spring in a striking red waxed denim.Denim guru Adriano Goldschmied has invested in MYR, an innovative digital design tool dedicated to denim that was presented earlier this year at the Denim PV trade show in Paris and is now ready to hit the market. Conceived to simplify the denim design process by denim experts Umberto Brocchetto and Valter Celato, it avoids prototyping stages, simplifying customization and creating a digital link between designers and garment makers. Goldschmied’s Los Angeles-based House of Gold agency will be the official distributor of the software in North and Central America.Belgian brand Filles à Papa — “Daddy’s girls” — is ramping up for expansion and relying on denim to do so. The "It" girl favorite, founded in 2012 by sisters Carol and Sarah Piron in Liège, has been spotted on Hailey Baldwin, Chiara Ferragni and most recently Barbara Palvin at the CR "Party like it's 1999" shindig. Titled Exotica, their latest collection is a hymn to karaoke culture: a brash clash of Instagram-worthy shapes and layers with a distinct Japan-meets-Nineties vibe.Jacket lapels break out of a denim vest, a kimono top splices a ruffled minidress, sweatshirts have their necklines cut so low as to be almost gynecological (if one forgets to wear anything underneath). It could be vulgar, but the Pirons impart a don’t-care attitude in their wares that chimes with the here-and-now. There’s even a cat meme, lifted from the Internet — Sarah Piron said she didn't mind their work being dated to a particular year, going as far as to print 2017 on the labels. Best of all was their denim — cropped jackets, bejeweled bodies — but foremost was their twisted jeans, with one half back-to-front, introduced with resort.For its 40th anniversary, German denim brand Closed has tapped founder and first creative director François Girbaud for a collaboration for spring 2018. The veteran designer is passionate about denim and more so about innovation. “Since 1989, when I realized how unsustainable denim treatments — such as stonewash — were, I’ve been fighting for ecologically sounder ideas,” said Girbaud, who worked with Kanye West on several projects around Yeezy.The story is therefore not in the shapes, a tight offering of T-shirts with reflective and glow-in-the-dark motifs, ample workwear and well-cut denim, but in the warp stretch and other clever technical legerdemain. Consider Closed a gateway into Girbaud’s other work in denim. True to his idea that “premium denim is dead,” the line is democratically priced, ranging from 179 euros for a pair of jeans to 599 euros for a trenchcoat.
Exclusive: @dsquared2 signs fragrance licensing agreement with Euroitalia, with the first effort of the new partnership being unveiled in September. The brand will launch two scents – one for men and one for women – in Italy. Read our interview with designer Dean and Dan Caten on WWD.com. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: @zefashioninsider)
@louisvuitton has officially renewed Nicolas Ghesquière’s contract as artistic director of women's collections. "I am very pleased to open the next chapter of the story I started with Louis Vuitton almost 5 years ago," said Ghesquière, who first signed on to design the French luxury brand's women's line in 2013. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
“I learned then and there that I had to figure out a way in life to maintain and preserve my sense of pride when I felt good about what I did or what I represented or created,” said @saintrecords on how being bullied for wearing capri pants inspired her to be the artist she is today. Knowles was at the 70th Parsons Benefit last night where she outbid the room for a Dapper Dan customized @gucci experience. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
“There’s this amazing braintrust of people who know the whole universe so well. So we talked to them and they gave us more input,” said actor Alden Ehrenreich on playing the young Han Solo in “Solo: A Star Wars Story.” The cast was at NYC’s SVA Theatre last night for an advanced screening of the film, which hits theaters this week. #wwdeye #starwars #hansolo (📷: @aurorarosedecrosta)
@asaprocky spent nearly two hours in a Plexiglas box Sunday night at @sothebys putting himself through a series of “tests” to demonstrate the process of completing his new album called “Testing.” Get all the details and see all the pictures on WWD.com. #wwdeye
“I’ve struggled my whole life to find a bathing suit that fits me that doesn’t look like a maternity bra. I’m proud of the line because it’s an accurate representation of me rather than me putting on someone else’s clothes,” says @atlantabean of her swimwear collaboration with @piaarrobio, LPA X ATL. The two decided on a swimwear collab and increased the industry standard size for the pieces. Read more about the line — and our interview with de Cadenet Taylor and Arrobio — on WWD.com #wwdfashion
Exclusive: Cate Blanchett has been named the first global beauty ambassador for @armanibeauty. Blanchett has been the face of the brand’s Sì fragrance franchise since 2013, and is now representing all of the label’s beauty categories including makeup and skin care. #wwdbeauty (📷: @zefashioninsider)