PARIS — Denim designers, weavers and specialist from around the world got a jump start on the summer season at the first edition of Denim by Première Vision.
The show, held Tuesday and Wednesday at The Docks in the Saint-Denis suburb, was an opportunity for designers to start summer purchasing early, almost three months before Première Vision's signature show in February.
"Denim product development consists of an additional industrial step, which lengthens the industrial process compared to other textiles," said Philippe Pasquet, chief executive officer of Première Vision. "There was a great demand to show denim fabrics at an earlier date and to unite the various specialists of the industry."
Denim executives expressed approval of the show's timing and with having the world's denim resources all housed under one roof.
"Première Vision hit it right on the dot," said Thomas Dislich, managing director of São Paulo, Brazil-based Vicunha Europe, one of world's largest denim fabric producers. "There was a demand in the denim market to have the offering presented at an early date and all together."
Providing denim for brands such as Calvin Klein, DKNY, Hugo Boss and Tommy Hilfiger, as well as Hennes & Mauritz and Zara, Vicunha sells 13 million yards of fabric in Europe annually — 75 percent of it denim.
Leading denim designers such as Diesel, G-Star, Replay and Miss Sixty were at the fair, as well as a handful of high-end fashion labels.
"It's very practical to finally have denim all under one roof," said Georgia Dant, denim designer for London-based Burberry.
Putting the focus on innovation, design, research and technology in a highly competitive market, industry specialists were looking on the bright side of the blues business.
"There is a glut of denim coming from markets such as Turkey, China, Pakistan and Brazil, which has caused the general industry to plateau but not slow," Pasquet said. "There is still huge demand for mid- to high-end and premium denim, which makes up as much as 25 percent of the market. Designers are on the hunt for more sophisticated denim savoir faire."Fabrics with an artisanal feel were a key trend at the show, which was filled with natural fibers such as linen, hemp, wool and silk, as well as organic dies, finishes and fabrics like bamboo and soy. Recycled denim was also prominent for summer. Color palettes in casts of ultrabright blues with red or gray hues set the tone at the fair, while lightweight weaves for summer offered a Seventies flare.
"It was essential to start a trade show that corresponds to the dates of the creation of denim," said Philippe Friedmann, consultant for denim think tank Rad Rags.
Friedmann agreed that premium weavers were heading back to more artesian methods, promoting irregularities in denim and working on more wearable raw finishes by using natural and organic fabrics.
"The main weavers come to us, but premium weavers and niche mills are essential for our product development and premium lines within the brand," said Sander Van de Vecht, product line manager for denim at Gsus Denim, who looked for lightweight fabrics at Italy's Cappio Tessuti Srl.
"There is much to uncover," said Nikolaj Nielsen, president of Copenhagen's denim-heavy label Won Hundred. "There is an overall handmade feel."
At Okaya, Japan-based Collect Co., denim guru Hisao Manabe stressed the need to blend modern and traditional methods. Manabe's hands-on approach to denim is evidenced by his blue fingernails that have been dyed from dipping denim in indigo.
"We look for the right balance between the skill of tradition and high technology," Manabe said.
@margotrobbie steps out onto the red carpet wearing @miumiu. The actress is nominated for “Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role” in “I, Tonya” at the #SagAwards. (📷: Stewart Cook) #wwdfashion
For @massimogiorgetti of @msgm, the Nineties are his favorite decade. “They had a huge impact on my personal growth. What I like of the Nineties is that they are not so precise in terms of style as other decades…there was actually a bit of everything,” he said. As seen on MSGM’s Spring 2018 show: tie-dye and a bit of grunge, two styles that are synonymous with the decade #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @kukukuba)
Breaking News: @hedislimane joins @celine as its new artistic, creative and image director. One of fashion’s preeminent image-makers and trendsetters, Slimane is to join the LVMH brand on Feb. 1 and unveil his first fashion proposition for men and women next September during Paris Fashion Week. It marks a major homecoming for Slimane, who cemented his reputation – and influenced men’s tailoring for more than a decade – as the designer of Dior Homme between 2000 and 2007. He went on to reinvent and ignite the house of Yves Saint Laurent, which he rechristened Saint Laurent, between 2012 and 2016 – all the while maintaining a close relationship with the Arnault family, which controls LVMH and Dior. Read the full exclusive story on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
“Personally I believe the Eighties have been the richest and more vivacious period for international fashion,” Giorgio Armani said when asked what his favorite decade of fashion is. It was a moment of disruption and experimentation and only thinking back to the first years of that decade is always an emotion for me, for what they have meant to me and my work.” The influence is clear in @giorgioarmani spring 2018 collection, pictured here, which was full of bright colors and unexpected prints. Read more about which decades designers loved most on WWD.com #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
For Lady Gaga’s only Italian show on her “Joanne World Tour,” the singer wore a range of @versace_official outfits. The standout piece: this custom-made bodysuit inspired by the brand’s spring 2018 collection. #wwdfashion (RG: @ladygaga)
@_camillaruth_ is expanding on the wellness-craze concept with @westbourne – a new NYC restaurant that’s both a healthy-minded café as well as a business that gives back to the community. Marcus works with the Robin Hood foundation to give back to The Door, a non-profit providing youth development services, and also hires employees through The Door. Read our full interview with Marcus on giving back through food on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)