NEW YORK — Next month, 1stdibs.com will team up with vintage clothing retailer Resurrection to present “Resurrection’s 20 Years of Martin Margiela (1989-2008): The Marcia Berger Collection” — an exhibition and subsequent sale of about 1,000 Maison Martin Margiela pieces.
Berger, who died in Los Angeles in 2008, was obsessed with clothes and collected Margiela for almost two decades. After her death, the owner of the estate contacted Resurrection founders Mark Haddawy and Katy Rodriguez, who operate vintage boutiques in Los Angeles and New York.
Berger also had many of Margiela’s one-of-a-kind artisanal pieces she had preserved like works of art.
“These clothes were never worn,” Haddawy recalled of the process of uncovering the estate. “She bought them, and they left the store in a garment bag, and they were in a garment bag when we saw them. They all had the tags on them. It was an amazing experience to uncover them, not knowing what would come out of the box — and all of a sudden pulling out the military sock sweater from 1991, for instance. A lot of those clothes were extremely rare.”
The collection includes such pieces as a 2001 vintage kid glove-assembled top from 2001, a 1997 dress form top and a 2007 vintage belt assembled jacket. The sale also will feature accessories and footwear, including Margiela’s iconic Tabi split-toe shoes, and jewels made from soda tabs, belt buckles and resin.
“It’s hard to imagine there is another collection of Margiela like this in the world,” Haddawy added. “She was really collecting it in the day. A lot of people collect something after the fact. She put the collection together in real time. She sees the pieces on the runway and says, ‘This is what I want from the collection’ and buys those pieces. With Margiela, she had not only those pieces but she also bought the artisanal pieces, which were more eccentric and more one-of-a-kind.”
Resurrection and 1stdibs.com are staging an exhibition of 350 key pieces, which will open to the public at a temporary gallery space at One Jackson Square in mid-February, after a Feb. 12 party to kick off the sale. Clair Watson, the antique and vintage clothing expert and former couture director at auction house Doyle New York who oversees the vintage couture section at 1stdibs.com, is working with Haddawy on the installation.
The Web site, which added vintage couture to its repertory last summer, is also creating the online catalogue of the top pieces.
“I love the whole story of this woman who created this collection,” said Michael Bruno, founder and president of 1stdibs.com. “The idea of how someone can become so singularly obsessed with one thing was always really fascinating to me. Because Marcia Berger was so obsessed with Margiela, she really had collected all the best pieces.”
Bruno didn’t know whether Margiela, who never showed his face to the public, would attend the party next month to see his best works.
“Of course we can hope,” he said with a laugh. “He can have a private tour if he wants.”
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews