MILAN — After eight years, Alessandro Sartori is leaving his post as creative director of Z Zegna and will be succeeded by Paul Surridge, currently head designer of Jil Sander Menswear, reporting to creative director Raf Simons.
Surridge, who has honed his men’s wear skills at Burberry and Calvin Klein, will take over with the fall-winter 2012 collection. Z Zegna is Ermenegildo Zegna’s more fashion-oriented brand and was launched in 2003.
According to sources, Sartori is headed to men’s luxury footwear specialist Berluti, part of the French luxury giant LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. Antoine Arnault, son of LVMH chief executive officer Bernard Arnault, assumed the management helm of Berluti last January after three years heading up communications at Louis Vuitton. He declined all comment on Monday.
However, it is understood the young Arnault plans to build Berluti, an underdeveloped and under-the-radar jewel in the LVMH empire, into a lifestyle brand by expanding into ready-to-wear, travel bags and other categories.
A source said “it’s a colossal project, and an incredible investment for LVMH.”
According to sources, Berluti recently engaged specialists to work on categories such as knitwear and leather apparel, and the brand stewards are also said to be hunting for real estate in Paris to open a large flagship.
Founded in Paris in 1895 by a transplanted Italian and famous for its shoes in unusual colors and patinas, Berluti generates an estimated 80 percent of its revenues from footwear. Its most famous style, dubbed the Alessandro after the founding cobbler, is a court shoe fashioned from a single piece of leather without any seams.
“We are grateful to Alessandro Sartori for his outstanding creative contribution during the past years,” said Gildo Zegna, ceo of the Zegna Group, noting the designer “together with his team, did a great job in positioning [Z Zegna] perfectly.” The line, he said, “has an important role in our brand portfolio, developing a modern, fashionable lifestyle which continues to be a strategic priority for us. We are pleased to welcome Paul and wish him the best in accepting this new challenge.”
A Milan-based retailer said Z Zegna “works very well, with a tight fit that performs wonderfully in emerging markets.”
He said Sartori, in leaving Zegna, was perhaps tempted into “experimenting even more with fashion, without risking the loss of the brand’s target customer.”
Taking the final spot on the mens’ portion of New York Fashion Week calendar next month will be none other than @tomford. Though he’s shown his men’s wear in New York in the past, this will mark the first time the designer has shown his men’s collection alone during New York Fashion Week: Men’s. His runway show will debut on February 6 at the Park Avenue Armory. #wwdfashion
London-based couture house @ralphandrusso has certainly been in the spotlight, having its dresses worn by @beyonce, Angelina Jolie, Meghan Markle in her engagement photos and more. For couture, Tamara Ralph focused on ornamentation — think: feathers with chain mail, jet embroidery and clusters of pearls and crystals. See the rest of the collection on WWD.com #wwdfashion #couture (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
Minnie Mouse celebrated her 90th birthday by getting her own star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. For her celebratory luncheon, @coach’s creative director @stuartvevers dressed her in a custom made prairie dress, complete with Vever’s take on the polka dot – black sequined versions – under a cropped motorcycle jacket. The designer also put his own mark on Minnie’s classic red shoes, infusing the color with sparkles and adding some Coach crystals. “We chose colors that were very Minnie and also represented quintessential Coach elements,” said Vevers. #wwdfashion #nationalpolkadotday (📷: George Chinsee)
@nickjonas is unveiling his first-ever apparel collection through a partnership with John Varvatos. The limited-edition capsule, which makes its debut in spring, also marks the first time the designer has collaborated with anyone on a line. “The process in working with Nick is amazing. It’s inspiring to be around someone who is not only connected with the trade that they do, but also with what’s happening in the environment around him, and how that connects to what we do with style,” said Varvatos. (RG: @johnvarvatos) #wwdfashion
@margotrobbie steps out onto the red carpet wearing @miumiu. The actress is nominated for “Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role” in “I, Tonya” at the #SagAwards. (📷: Stewart Cook) #wwdfashion
For @massimogiorgetti of @msgm, the Nineties are his favorite decade. “They had a huge impact on my personal growth. What I like of the Nineties is that they are not so precise in terms of style as other decades…there was actually a bit of everything,” he said. As seen on MSGM’s Spring 2018 show: tie-dye and a bit of grunge, two styles that are synonymous with the decade #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @kukukuba)