MILAN — After eight years, Alessandro Sartori is leaving his post as creative director of Z Zegna and will be succeeded by Paul Surridge, currently head designer of Jil Sander Menswear, reporting to creative director Raf Simons.
Surridge, who has honed his men’s wear skills at Burberry and Calvin Klein, will take over with the fall-winter 2012 collection. Z Zegna is Ermenegildo Zegna’s more fashion-oriented brand and was launched in 2003.
According to sources, Sartori is headed to men’s luxury footwear specialist Berluti, part of the French luxury giant LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. Antoine Arnault, son of LVMH chief executive officer Bernard Arnault, assumed the management helm of Berluti last January after three years heading up communications at Louis Vuitton. He declined all comment on Monday.
However, it is understood the young Arnault plans to build Berluti, an underdeveloped and under-the-radar jewel in the LVMH empire, into a lifestyle brand by expanding into ready-to-wear, travel bags and other categories.
A source said “it’s a colossal project, and an incredible investment for LVMH.”
According to sources, Berluti recently engaged specialists to work on categories such as knitwear and leather apparel, and the brand stewards are also said to be hunting for real estate in Paris to open a large flagship.
Founded in Paris in 1895 by a transplanted Italian and famous for its shoes in unusual colors and patinas, Berluti generates an estimated 80 percent of its revenues from footwear. Its most famous style, dubbed the Alessandro after the founding cobbler, is a court shoe fashioned from a single piece of leather without any seams.
“We are grateful to Alessandro Sartori for his outstanding creative contribution during the past years,” said Gildo Zegna, ceo of the Zegna Group, noting the designer “together with his team, did a great job in positioning [Z Zegna] perfectly.” The line, he said, “has an important role in our brand portfolio, developing a modern, fashionable lifestyle which continues to be a strategic priority for us. We are pleased to welcome Paul and wish him the best in accepting this new challenge.”
A Milan-based retailer said Z Zegna “works very well, with a tight fit that performs wonderfully in emerging markets.”
He said Sartori, in leaving Zegna, was perhaps tempted into “experimenting even more with fashion, without risking the loss of the brand’s target customer.”
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews