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Menswear issue 03/17/2015


Day 1—London
As if in a sequel to A Passage to India, I arrive at JFK carrying too many suitcases on my way to London Fashion Week. And without much time to think whether I’m ready for this, I’m seated at the Topman show.

So my fashion tour starts…

This story first appeared in the March 17, 2015 issue of WWD.  Subscribe Today.

The show is a blend of early Seventies references and Far East psychedelia. Cropped denim bell-bottoms are not my delight but I will always have a soft spot for the Main Street retailer, after all, it was my teenage fashion mecca…

Without missing a beat, I am headed to the London Eye to shoot the first #15secondswithalexbadia video of the series for @wwd Instagram. Am I ready for my close-up? Not really, but iconic backgrounds and monuments trend well, FYI…

Next up is the MAN show, where Rory Parnell Mooney presents a collection full of ecclesiastical and Goth motifs while Nicomede Talavera channels Japanese-inspired shapes such as kimono and judo jackets. London continues to be a great source of fresh talent…

Seated next to me at the Coach show is CFDA’s chief executive officer, Steven Kolb; we talk about July’s inaugural New York Fashion Week: Men’s and how to make it great. I am excited…

Stuart Vevers’ runway debut collection centered around the shearling coat and its many interpretations, such as car coats, hooded parkas and chic aviator jackets, my personal favorite…

I need another pair of sneakers like a hole in the head but I can’t control my urges and I stop at Size? and get my hands on a great pair of white-and-silver Nike X Pedro Lourenço collaboration…

Wearing my new shoes, I go backstage to see Christopher Shannon. I compliment him on his healthy looks. Well, there is nothing better than a heartbreak diet, he says. I wish I could gossip about ex-lovers (my favorite pastime) but I concentrate on the inspiration for his reinvention of traditional sporty and streetwear classics. I love his lack of a filter…

Last stop of the day is the Woolmark awards at the beautiful Matches Fashion’s town house where the Public School guys are celebrating their win. On the way out I get a text … some old English friends want to go out. I have three weeks of shows ahead of me, so I choose to have a chamomile tea and a salt bath back at the hotel. #boringbutwise…

Day 2—London
It was so worth it to wake up early to hit the gym and do a face mask before running to the Lou Dalton collection. The lineup shows great restraint and good sartorial knowledge…

Next stop: the Maharishi show, where it becomes apparent that Japanese silhouettes and samurai references are all the hype this season. Thank God I am wearing a workwear kimono under my bomber jacket today. I feel like I belong…

Inside the Astrid Andersen universe it is perfectly normal to mix crushed velvet, Chantilly lace and fur in shades from shocking pink to raspberry. Although this look is not suitable for any business formal occasions, I enjoy the show. More samurai references…

One of the highlights of the week is Christopher Raeburn at 6 p.m. I get to the show at 5:56 p.m. and all the seats are taken. These Brits run their shows with military precision, and 5:56 p.m. is the new late. It was worth fighting with a Turkish retailer for my seat since the sailing-inspired collection is full of novelty items…

The last show of the day is Sibling. I rush backstage to do a #15secondswithalexbadia and the scene resembles a bubble gum Katy Perry video: models with pink hair, wearing pink clothes, some shirtless and holding big pink teddy bears. Then I remember why I do this. #Ilovefashion…

To cap off the day, I hit the Esquire magazine party. I adore British fashion girls. They are chic, smart, superblonde and they party like rock stars. But not me, I make a French exit and run back to the hotel for another chamomile tea. Starting to feel like Tootsie…

Day 3—London
Things are getting serious…

We start with JW Anderson. I get seated next to the ceo, who is extremely charming and wearing a scent that smells like a mixture of suntan lotion and cash. The show is full of Seventies references. A nutmeg-colored coat with jewel-like buttons and the Mongolian knitted scarves with dramatic fringes catch my eye…
James Long has a hand for embellishments and deconstruction, his use of wide collars and patch pockets in shearling gives another nod to the Seventies…

I get to Moschino early enough to have a brief chat with Jeremy Scott—the last time I saw him was at Art Basel in Miami dancing with Miley Cyrus. I want his life. He mentions the collection is inspired by lumberjack ravers. I definitely want to be him. The show is great, with fake snow coming down from the ceiling and rapper Wiz Khalifa making the front row smell like a marijuana plantation…

Sarah Burton shows one more time that she is a master of sartorial craftsmanship with a powerful McQueen effort centered around reinvented heritage military uniforms with strict tailoring precision. #puretalent…

The surprise of the day comes from the hand of John Ray. His Dunhill show is a master class in how the bohemian upper class used to dress. The show climaxes with a pajama section, some of them paired with shaved mink coats…

Day 4 — London
After a bit of “bloody tailback”—as my driver says—I get to E.Tautz, where the handsome Patrick Grant helps solidify the return-to-classicism trend. The round-shouldered overcoats worn with high-waisted flannel pants feel very Thirties and relevant…proportions, monochromatic color palettes and new takes on military uniforms have proven influential among his peers. Backstage is all the rage, with Tommy Ton documenting every move…

Tom Ford fascinates me. He is allowing social media for the first time but that does not include pictures of him, as Natalie Massenet discovers after trying to snap one pic. The show is full of late-Sixties references and the shearlings are the highlight. Btw, Tom Ford doesn’t age. #deathbecomesher…

Christopher Bailey presents an embellished hippie collection for Burberry, featuring tiny mirrors, fringe and pops of paisley print. While it rains glittered confetti during the finale, I have only one thing on my mind: the return of Galliano. Maison Margiela Artisanal Couture is next…

On my way out, I run into glam British TV presenter Poppy Jamie; we spend five minutes trying to agree about who looks cuter. “You do!!!” “No, no!! You do!!” Thanks, doll, but it is really you…

The front row at Margiela is full of familiar faces such as Alber Elbaz, Manolo Blahnik and Christopher Bailey. They hold the show for Kate Moss, who arrives 15 minutes late (guess the 5:56 rule doesn’t apply to her). The traffic was terrible, she tells me with a wink after the show. All the hype is worth it as Galliano delivers a bold and promising collection. I will remember this moment, and Milan is next…

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