LONDON — Pringle of Scotland and its design director, Alistair Carr, have parted ways after a little more than a year as the company continues to refocus the business.
Jean Fang, Pringle’s chief executive officer and a member of the Hong Kong–based family that owns the brand, said the parting was amicable and that, going forward, the collection would be designed by the existing in-house team. She said Pringle plans to focus on seasonal presentations rather than runway shows, roll out smaller retail stores and emphasize core product, such as luxury cashmere and wool separates with a modern edge.
She called Carr’s departure “a mutual decision,” and said he would art direct the fall ad campaign and show his spring 2013 Pringle men’s wear collection in London in mid-June. Carr will also show the 2013 resort collection in New York on June 11, and will continue to work on the Pringle-sponsored exhibition “Princess Grace: More Than an Image,” at the Nouveau Musée National de Monaco.
“I want to thank Alistair for all his great efforts and contributions at Pringle. We will miss him, and we wish him all the best in his future endeavors,” she said.
Carr joined Pringle in March 2011, and his first collection was for spring 2012. He holds a master’s degree from Central Saint Martins and was previously a stylist at Balenciaga, where he worked on the runway collections. Carr also worked at Marni, Cacharel and Chloé, and he designed a signature label, which he showed during London Fashion Week. He succeeded Clare Waight Keller, Pringle’s creative director, who last year took up the post of creative director at Chloé.
Carr boosted Pringle’s profile internationally with his edgy collections and knitwear research, played with Pringle signatures such as the argyle knit, and worked pattern and texture into the collections, making wool look like astrakhan for the collar of a camel coat or weaving reflective yarns into crewneck sweaters and creating “3-D” herringbone knits.
His departure caps a year of changes at Pringle: Fang took over last year after the resignation of Mary-Adair Macaire and has been working closely with Benoit Duverger, who was promoted to the new role of managing director last year.
Fang said one of the chief priorities now is retail development, and that the new generation of Pringle stores would be about 2,500 square feet, or about half the size of the current flagship on Sloane Street in London.
The company will continue to wholesale the brand, and currently has more than 230 doors worldwide, with Saks Fifth Avenue, Barneys New York and Harrods among its stockists.
Fang said Pringle has seen double-digit growth in women’s wear for the spring season, and that the brand’s capsule collection of luxury basics, designed by 10 magazine editor Sophia Neophitou-Apostolou, was a bestseller at Heathrow Terminal 5.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast