PARIS — Azzedine Alaïa, who toils away at his Rue de Moussy headquarters in the Marais district, is spreading his wings further in Paris.
This fall, a retrospective exhibition of his designs to mark the reopening of the Musée Galliera will spread to a second site, the Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris, including its famous Salle Matisse, the designer told WWD.
The modern art museum is located roughly across the street from the Galliera, which has been closed for renovation for several years.
Alaïa said the sprawling exhibition, curated by Olivier Saillard, is to showcase as many as 100 dresses, all culled from his personal archive. Precise opening dates and other details of the showcase have yet to be finalized, but it is sure to be a headline event on the fall cultural calendar.
In October, Alaïa plans to open a flagship at 5 Rue de Marignan. He said the main floor would be dedicated to accessories and shoes, with ready-to-wear showcased over two upper floors.
The 18th-century townhouse, a stone’s throw from the tony tree-lined avenue that is home to designer stores including Christian Dior, Nina Ricci, Prada, Valentino, Chanel and Fendi, will also house administration and accounting functions.
“It’s going to become the second Avenue Montaigne,” Alaïa predicted of the Rue de Marignan, which runs roughly parallel with the premier luxury strip, emanating from between the fashion canteen L’Avenue and the Céline boutique, which is moving to the Avenue Montaigne and will replaced by Dior Homme.
Alaïa praised the environs as one of true luxury. Indeed, the Avenue Montaigne boasts new flagships for Chanel, Saint Laurent and Fendi, slated to open during couture week.
Alaïa has tapped many of his design and artist buddies — including Marc Newson, Martin Szekely and Kris Ruhs — to create lighting and furniture for the imposing store.
He said he would keep his historic Paris retail location at 7 Rue de Moussy, which has no window display and buzzes in shoppers and couture clients.
During an interview in his sprawling kitchen, a pony-sized St. Bernard dog sprawled at his feet, Alaïa said he’s already at work on his first signature perfume, having inked a 13-year fragrance and cosmetics license with Beauté Prestige International. The first Alaïa fragrance is expected to hit the market in 2015.
The brand, long prized by specialty stores for its strong sell-through, has enjoyed a renaissance in recent years, making him a go-to designer for models, art dealers and fashion professionals.
Naomi Campbell, among his inner circle, was recently in town shooting an editorial with photographer Dominique Issermann, the designer related.
While owned since 2007 by luxury group Compagnie Financière Richemont SA, parent of Cartier, Chloé, Dunhill and other brands, Alaïa retains a fiercely independent spirit.
Mello said Martha “Marty” Wikstrom — who resigned her role as chief executive officer of Richemont Fashion and Accessories, a role she had been in since 2009 — had “launched Azzedine Alaïa in the U.S. and really built the brand internationally.”
Alaïa said Wikstrom “launched nothing and built nothing” for him, noting that his brand has been present in America since the early Eighties, when he staged fashion shows at Bergdorf Goodman and the Palladium nightclub.
He added that the U.S. remains his largest market, and he has partnered for years with retailers including Barneys New York, Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Maxfield and Ikram.
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)