Marc Jacobs has an affection for boldly shaped silhouettes, and he showed it with the overscaled versions in his remarkable fall collection for Louis Vuitton. Here, a jacket with pleated details at the hips and a full skirt, both in the thick, cozy fabrics he favored throughout.
Marc Jacobs created distinctive, boldly constructed shapes for Louis Vuitton, while Olivier Theyskens' undone looks for Nina Ricci fell in slender curves.
Louis Vuitton: Richard Prince? He and his high-voltage artwork are so last season. At least on the Louis Vuitton runway (though certainly not at retail), where, on Sunday afternoon, Marc Jacobs showed a fabulous, brash collection that took a strict turn from the madcap artwork of spring. Now there's nary a cartoon character, nurse, nor painted stroke in sight. Rather, the collection was all about structure, a point the designer alluded to with his installation outside the Cour Carrée: a vast grid of construction-site scaffolding.
As is often the case, with the hindsight of a completed season, a theme Jacobs put forth in New York, that of scaling back, now looks huge. We've seen it every which way including boring, which, mercifully for the fashion-weary, Jacobs doesn't do. But he does do fashion-improbable contrast, and these clothes were packed with it, on one hand stripped of decoration and on the other, structured to the point of flamboyance. Jacobs took elements of classic French chic and exploded them, along the way paying homage to Montana and Mugler, but with an aggression that skewed pretty pastel. He started with thick, cozy fabrics that screamed fall-winter: bouclés, blanket cashmeres, even wide-wale corduroy, and worked them with a deftness suited to far lighter materials. Zip-up coats and jackets molded seamlessly to the torso; a skirt flaunted major roller-coaster curves on each side. Throughout, Jacobs sculpted, peplumed and blousoned inventively, incorporating bold collars, asymmetric swirls and endless hip action, including megapleat pants and two looks that featured uncovered pannier wiring. The jewelry was similarly bold, in a sculpted, industrial vein, and the bags, ultrachic, clean shapes in embossed skins slung on snake handles.
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)
@heriethpaul and @gracebol have a moment on the @victoriassecret fashion show 2017. See every look from the runway on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo) #wwdfashion #victoriassecret #VSFashionShow
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia