Marc Jacobs has an affection for boldly shaped silhouettes, and he showed it with the overscaled versions in his remarkable fall collection for Louis Vuitton. Here, a jacket with pleated details at the hips and a full skirt, both in the thick, cozy fabrics he favored throughout.
Marc Jacobs created distinctive, boldly constructed shapes for Louis Vuitton, while Olivier Theyskens' undone looks for Nina Ricci fell in slender curves.
Louis Vuitton: Richard Prince? He and his high-voltage artwork are so last season. At least on the Louis Vuitton runway (though certainly not at retail), where, on Sunday afternoon, Marc Jacobs showed a fabulous, brash collection that took a strict turn from the madcap artwork of spring. Now there's nary a cartoon character, nurse, nor painted stroke in sight. Rather, the collection was all about structure, a point the designer alluded to with his installation outside the Cour Carrée: a vast grid of construction-site scaffolding.
As is often the case, with the hindsight of a completed season, a theme Jacobs put forth in New York, that of scaling back, now looks huge. We've seen it every which way including boring, which, mercifully for the fashion-weary, Jacobs doesn't do. But he does do fashion-improbable contrast, and these clothes were packed with it, on one hand stripped of decoration and on the other, structured to the point of flamboyance. Jacobs took elements of classic French chic and exploded them, along the way paying homage to Montana and Mugler, but with an aggression that skewed pretty pastel. He started with thick, cozy fabrics that screamed fall-winter: bouclés, blanket cashmeres, even wide-wale corduroy, and worked them with a deftness suited to far lighter materials. Zip-up coats and jackets molded seamlessly to the torso; a skirt flaunted major roller-coaster curves on each side. Throughout, Jacobs sculpted, peplumed and blousoned inventively, incorporating bold collars, asymmetric swirls and endless hip action, including megapleat pants and two looks that featured uncovered pannier wiring. The jewelry was similarly bold, in a sculpted, industrial vein, and the bags, ultrachic, clean shapes in embossed skins slung on snake handles.
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)