NEW YORK — “It’s like a mini Paris,” observed Guillaume Henry, Carven’s creative director, of his label’s new neighborhood. Carven’s first U.S. store opens soon — at press time a construction snafu had delayed today’s soft opening — at 83 Mercer Street here, joining fellow French brands A.P.C., Iro, Isabel Marant, Jerome Dreyfuss and Balenciaga (opening Nov. 22) in what’s becoming a very Gallic stretch of SoHo.
“It’s a fashion dynamic — contemporary but also very creative,” said Henry of the area, where Carven moved into the space formerly occupied by Curve before it relocated to Bond Street. Incidentally, Nevena Borissova, Curve’s owner, carries Carven and asked Henry and the label’s chief executive officer, Henri Sebaoun, if they would be interested in taking over the lease on Mercer. They reworked the 1,636-square-foot space with architect Eric Chevallier, implementing the mosaic flooring, oak, marble and furnishings designed by Domeau & Peres to be consistent with Carven’s 15 other stand-alone boutiques. There are a few decorative touches specific to New York, such as a ceiling light installation, a pêle-mêle mosaic wall and red plywood floor, which “French people consider a very American material,” said Henry. RELATED STORY: Carven RTW Spring 2014 >>
The New York store, which carries the men’s and women’s collections, is the latest in a spate of retail activity for Carven, which opened boutiques in Shanghai and London in the last month and has plans for 20 more stores in the U.S. in the next five years. Additionally, Carven signed a long-term contract with Club 21 U.K. to increase its retail presence there, with a similar deal with the distribution company Bluebell Group in Asia. Sebaoun is also seeking outside investment to propel the label’s growth, though nothing is definite yet.
Sebaoun and Henry relaunched Carven, the Parisian label founded by Madame Carven in 1945, in 2009 and were met with instant success. Market sources estimate Carven’s revenues at 30 million euros, or $40.2 million at current exchange. Establishing its own stores is a big part of the growth strategy. “If you work only with a department store, and the buyer only buys a few pieces in the collection, it’s difficult to explain the philosophy,” said Sedaoun. “When you have your own boutique, you can really present ideas in a visual way.”
In typical retail renovation fashion, Carven’s SoHo vision was still a work in progress as of Tuesday, when Henry and Sebaoun arrived from Paris. While the store’s Parisian attitude was being installed, they took to a well-established French restaurant, La Luncheonette, for a dinner to pre-celebrate the opening. Editors and party people, such as Atlanta de Cadenet, Leandra Medine, Harley Viera Newton, Tennessee Thomas and Ciara, who arrived wearing a big blue coat from Carven’s fall collection, were serenaded by an accordion player. “It actually works out because it’s so darn cold. I feel very insulated,” said Ciara of her weather-appropriate outerwear.
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“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
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In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye