The spring couture season brought with it an unexpected but very welcome surprise: a terrific collection from potential star Alexis Mabille that mixed couture with ready-to-wear looks. Mabille's boy-meets-girl styles included a variety of distinctively detailed shirtdresses and jeans with roses at the sides. Here, one of his singular sensations: a blouse with a row of bows worn with wide cuffed pants.
This Paris Fashion Week may be devoted to the couture, but there's some appealing ready-to-wear on show, too. Cathy Pill offered ladylike looks, while Alexis Mabille's mix of couture and rtw was a bow-tie-bedecked romp.
Alexis Mabille: One of fashion's great joys is the thrill of discovery, happening upon a fresh talent with star potential. Given the delightful collection he showed on Thursday morning, Alexis Mabille offers such promise by the bushel. Not that he's been hiding under a rock. Mabille, 31, is well known in Paris fashion circles. He spent 10 years at Christian Dior before moving to Yves Saint Laurent, where he still works on the costume jewelry. He broke out on his own in 2005, first with a collection of pants and, later, bow ties, attracting a fancy client list that included Karl Lagerfeld and Mick Jagger.
For his show, a mix of ready-to-wear and haute couture, Mabille's program notes proclaimed, "No season, no reason." But that bon mot is only half right. Transseasonal these clothes may be, but they definitely have a reason: to infuse luxury with a buoyant sportswear spirit. Mabille showed at Angelina's tearoom, and the first look out was a pink pastry of a coat completely covered with organza bows and worn by German soprano Calixta Biron von Curland. She sang throughout the presentation, mixing opera snippets with lines of poetry and the occasional interjection of "noeud papillons! [bow ties!]" or "Alexis Mabille!"
Delightful though she looked, her froth proved something of an aberration. Mabille's real starting point was bourgeois basics — walking shorts, mannish trousers, a shirtdress, a shift — which he took somewhere decidedly different yet with enough familiarity to attract an immediate clientele. (He showed unisex and men's looks as well, though the latter seems a tad more limited than the women's clothes.) For example, he prettied up Western wear by ruffling the yoke of a cowboy shirt and sprinkling satin rose buds on the side of a pair of jeans, and he worked the shirtdress motif every which way — dropping the waist; adding flyaway pleats or a lace medallion in back. As for those bow ties, he worked them in wisely, not only as hair and handbag decoration, but angled into precision borders on the clothes and crafting the shape into the bodices of gorgeous, simple evening columns. It all made for a mood of sophisticated charm; one could even call it a bow coup.Cathy Pill: Belgian designer Cathy Pill paired feminine favorites, such as womanly pencil skirts, with pieces in prints, and offered scintillating floor-length dresses as part of her fresh and polished collection.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty