The spring couture season brought with it an unexpected but very welcome surprise: a terrific collection from potential star Alexis Mabille that mixed couture with ready-to-wear looks. Mabille's boy-meets-girl styles included a variety of distinctively detailed shirtdresses and jeans with roses at the sides. Here, one of his singular sensations: a blouse with a row of bows worn with wide cuffed pants.
This Paris Fashion Week may be devoted to the couture, but there's some appealing ready-to-wear on show, too. Cathy Pill offered ladylike looks, while Alexis Mabille's mix of couture and rtw was a bow-tie-bedecked romp.
Alexis Mabille: One of fashion's great joys is the thrill of discovery, happening upon a fresh talent with star potential. Given the delightful collection he showed on Thursday morning, Alexis Mabille offers such promise by the bushel. Not that he's been hiding under a rock. Mabille, 31, is well known in Paris fashion circles. He spent 10 years at Christian Dior before moving to Yves Saint Laurent, where he still works on the costume jewelry. He broke out on his own in 2005, first with a collection of pants and, later, bow ties, attracting a fancy client list that included Karl Lagerfeld and Mick Jagger.
For his show, a mix of ready-to-wear and haute couture, Mabille's program notes proclaimed, "No season, no reason." But that bon mot is only half right. Transseasonal these clothes may be, but they definitely have a reason: to infuse luxury with a buoyant sportswear spirit. Mabille showed at Angelina's tearoom, and the first look out was a pink pastry of a coat completely covered with organza bows and worn by German soprano Calixta Biron von Curland. She sang throughout the presentation, mixing opera snippets with lines of poetry and the occasional interjection of "noeud papillons! [bow ties!]" or "Alexis Mabille!"
Delightful though she looked, her froth proved something of an aberration. Mabille's real starting point was bourgeois basics — walking shorts, mannish trousers, a shirtdress, a shift — which he took somewhere decidedly different yet with enough familiarity to attract an immediate clientele. (He showed unisex and men's looks as well, though the latter seems a tad more limited than the women's clothes.) For example, he prettied up Western wear by ruffling the yoke of a cowboy shirt and sprinkling satin rose buds on the side of a pair of jeans, and he worked the shirtdress motif every which way — dropping the waist; adding flyaway pleats or a lace medallion in back. As for those bow ties, he worked them in wisely, not only as hair and handbag decoration, but angled into precision borders on the clothes and crafting the shape into the bodices of gorgeous, simple evening columns. It all made for a mood of sophisticated charm; one could even call it a bow coup.Cathy Pill: Belgian designer Cathy Pill paired feminine favorites, such as womanly pencil skirts, with pieces in prints, and offered scintillating floor-length dresses as part of her fresh and polished collection.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews