Rather than partake in the new nationwide pastime of bemoaning the economy, bridal designers have jumped into the new season with ingenuity and, in some cases, razored prices.
It’s debatable just how recession-proof the wedding business is. Several bridal executives noted wedding budgets are being tightened, brides are saving up and buying closer to the actual day and the ongoing popularity of destination weddings is now even more appealing from a price standpoint. In regards to the latter, many resorts are offering special rates or promotions due to Americans’ reluctancy to get on a plane, and out-of-town weddings tend to generate more declined invitations due to the cost of travel.
For brands that only do bridal, taking a straight-to-it strategy is essential. But even designers with an array of products are diving into the category with gusto and elegant touches, knowing many women will spend several thousand dollars for the perfect dress. And those four- or five-digit purchases could certainly help compensate for all the sweaters, perfume and “It” bags shoppers have refrained from buying in recent months.
Event planner David Monn, who last week transformed his West 27th Street offices into a wedding showcase, seemed to capture the market’s can-do outlook. “I am tired of people talking about doing things on the cheap. To say what you can’t have only solidifies things. That is obvious. The question is: What can you do differently?” he said. “I have always believed what Richard Gump said, ‘Good taste costs no more.”
Vera Wang slashed select price points by 40 to 50 percent, serving up a new opening retail price point of $3,600 compared with $5,500 last year. Needless to say, retailers’ jaws dropped, Wang said, and then many wrote orders. But her top five selling styles, in terms of dollar sales, are still from the high-end Luxe collection. In fact, the most popular styles retail from $8,500 to $13,900. Ultimately, Wang wants brides to be allured by the design of whatever dress appeals to them, not the price tag. The same is true of the other products she designs.
“The same amount of thought goes into every line I do. I do that out of respect and respect to the fashion industry. I always try to think intelligently,” she said.
For her April 5 show at Tiffany & Co.’s Fifth Avenue flagship, Carolina Herrera created “an homage to classic painters” such as Claude Monet, Edouard Manet, Edgar Degas, Gustav Klimt and Jacques Louis David by designing dresses inspired by fashion featured in their art. Herrera described the extremely detailed process as “fun and interesting,” despite the task of modernizing what in some cases was 18th century work. Naming each of the 12 gowns after an artist and preparing for the show made for an amusing atmosphere in Herrera’s showroom. “Someone would say, ‘Where is Diego Velasquez?’”
As for the current state of affairs in the U.S. and abroad, Herrera said, “There is a bigger challenge. You have to be creative and be sure you want to show something special.”
After his show last week, Oscar de la Renta said his overall business is doing “extremely well,” so his bridal business is not serving as a buoy. “You just have to do your best even though the economy is difficult. It is not insurmountable,” he said, adding happy occasions such as weddings give shoppers reason to indulge.
Monique Lhuillier made the most of The London Hotel’s penthouse by showcasing her bridal collection, a new bridesmaid line and just-released licensed bedding. She set the retail prices of the bridesmaid dresses at between $250 and $390 with cost-conscious consumers in mind. Not wanting to undercut retailers that carry her more expensive wedding gowns, the designer decided to sell the bridesmaid dresses solely on her Web site for the time being.
To give buyers a glimpse of her bridesmaid dresses, Lela Rose showed her wedding collection at her bridesmaid dress store at licensor the Dessy Group. Having only been in the wedding business for two and a half years, Rose said she is pleased with how the business is developing. “People like having the wedding collection and the bridesmaid collection. It gives more heft to the brand,” she said.
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion