PARIS — Men’s wear designers here delivered savvy fall collections, prompting some buyers to raise orders by up to 15 percent, though the majority remained cautious about second-half prospects.
“There were clearly salable elements shown in almost every collection — wearable and understated,” said Eric Jennings, vice president and men’s fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue. “Some are saying ‘safe,’ but I say ‘smart.’”
Lanvin was widely praised for a collection that combined practicality and innovation. Other standout shows included Raf Simons, Junya Watanabe, Comme des Garçons and Rick Owens, buyers said.
Key trends included tailoring and variationson workwear, with heavy lace-up boots a recurring theme. Echoing Milan, designers here gave outerwear a sophisticated twist with great topcoats and technical jackets with futuristic straps and snaps.
Buyers praised brands for responding to a tough consumer environment by offering a wider selection of price points. Here is what they said about the Paris collections and their outlook for the second half.
Nickelson Wooster, men’s fashion director, Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus: “We particularly like the balance of tailored looks and refined sportswear. Standout shows are Lanvin, Rick Owens, Dries Van Noten, Balenciaga, Junya Watanabe. Lanvin, in particular, was exceptional as it achieved the perfect balance of tradition and fashion. Balmain, after only a couple of seasons, is becoming someone to take very seriously in men’s; we expect it will be as influential as it is in women’s. We see leather, fur and velvet paired with classic tweed and flannel as a great way for a guy to update something in his closet.”
Hirofumi Kurino, senior adviser and creative adviser, United Arrows Ltd., Japan: “There is a very positive feeling, so we are considering increasing our budgets for certain brands already in our portfolio. The very best show was Lanvin. They showed a new silhouette, new details in clothing and new fabrics. It was invention at its best and showed the progress of design, but still very commercially viable. Louis Vuitton also had a very nice show and showed a new direction for the house.”
Tancrède de Lalun, general merchandise manager of women’s and men’s apparel, Printemps: “It wasn’t a revolutionary season. Brands are sticking to what they are good at. After several seasons of reducing our orders, we plan to order roughly the same as last season. Spending will be split roughly equally between Paris and Milan. Confident is not the right word to describe our mood going into 2010, but we remain optimistic. More than ever, customers are looking for value. We are careful to offer products at every price point, and we are increasingly satisfied with our product mix. Brands have clearly reacted by offering capsule collections and lower entry price points.”
@kering_official is spinning off its stake in puma in an effort to focus on its luxury brands, the brand operator announced yesterday. “We are proud to have supported the turnaround of Puma, which now has unrivaled capabilities to take full advantage of the specific dynamics of its global markets and is poised to achieve substantial growth,” said François-Henri Pinault, Kering’s chief executive officer and chairman. Artémis will become a “long-term strategic shareholder” of Puma with a 29 percent stake. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
The fashion world mourns for celebrated street style photographer, Nabile Quenum, who died at age 32 in Paris.
Quenum, creator of the fashion blog “J’ai Perdu Ma Veste,” was a fashion week fixture, and regularly shot for New York magazine’s The Cut, among other outlets, and brands such as Louis Vuitton, Moncler and Adidas. He was also actively involved in the #NoFreePhotos initiative, which kicked off in the fall. Read more about Quenum in @kbsmoke's story on WWD.com. #wwdnews
@verwanggang and @maisonladuree have teamed up on a dessert collab called Vera Wang Pour Ladurée. The collection, which launched this week, features a specialty macaroon, as well as a wedding cake inspired by one of the designer’s gowns. “I could not imagine a more delicate or sophisticated creation to grace any couple’s celebration,” said Wang. #wwdfashion
“I’m Russian and I love to use all these little tricks that I got from my grandma or my mom. We didn’t have a lot of money for creams or anything like that so we would use a garden as a beauty treatment regime. We’d put cucumber in the fridge and do a cucumber mask,” says model @irinashayk on one of her beauty hacks. WWD asked celebs what their go-to self-care rituals are. See what Naomie Harris, Freida Pinto and more said on WWD.com. #wwdeye #wwdbeauty (📷: @zefashioninsider)
Exclusive: @viktorandrolf are teaming up with @Zalando on a collection made from leftover clothing. The lineup, which lands at the retailer February 1, includes 17 pieces adorned with sliced up and repurposed overstock from the retailer’s private label collection. Pictured here is a look from the collection –– see more on WWD.com. #wwdfashion #wwdnews
@duewestnyc is the newest bar joining the collection of intimate neighborhood-focused spaces in the West Village. The cocktail menu, which includes bitters and syrups made in-house, offers a “Build Your Own Old-Fashioned” – like the one pictured here – where guests can choose from a list of spirits and unexpected sugars and bitters. #wwdeye
Spotted at last night’s National Board of Review gala in NYC: Angelina Jolie. Jolie – along with Meryl Streep, @lupitanyongo and more – continued the all-black dress code from Sunday’s Golden Globes. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)