Cacharel founder and president Jean Bousquet revealed the appointment at a news conference, during which he outlined plans to partner with French companies for the production of its women’s, men’s and children’s collections. The new collections will carry the name Cacharel Paris starting with fall 2013.
“It’s not a revolution, it’s a repositioning,” he said.
These partners will be in charge of everything from prototypes to transport, although the clothes will be manufactured outside of France, said Bousquet, noting that fabrication costs represent only 20 to 30 percent of the final product cost. “The bulk of Cacharel’s turnover will be done in France,” he said.
Bousquet forecast that Cacharel would post a loss of 200,000 to 500,000 euros, or $259,000 to $648,000 at current exchange, in 2012. That compares to a profit of 1.5 million euros, or $2.1 million, the previous year.
Cacharel posted wholesale turnover of 150 million euros, or $209 million, in 2011, with perfume royalties accounting for 75 percent, women’s wear for 15 percent and other licenses for 10 percent, according to figures provided by the company.
Bousquet noted that although Cacharel’s rtw was present in 280 points of sale worldwide, sales under Aeffe were disappointing because the Italian firm — which owns the Alberta Ferretti, Moschino and Pollini brands and produces and distributes the Cédric Charlier and Emanuel Ungaro collections — positioned it as a designer line. “Cacharel was much too expensive,” Bousquet said.
The collection will be repositioned in the contemporary bracket, with average price points coming down by 30 to 40 percent, he added. Shirts will be priced at 150 to 180 euros, or $195 to $235; dresses at 250 to 350 euros, or $325 to $455, and coats at about 500 euros, or $650.
Executives hope that, by 2014, the brand will be carried in 500 points of sale and will reopen a Paris flagship. Its children’s collection will be available at French department store Printemps from next spring, and it plans to eventually open corners for its women’s wear line in various French department stores.
“The brand has to be strong in Paris and in France. If we are not strong here, then we can’t pretend to be strong elsewhere,” Bousquet said.
The design duo of Ling Liu and Dawei Sun will remain at the creative helm of the house, which plans to continue staging a runway show during Paris Fashion Week.
Sales will be handled in-house, with the planned opening of seven showrooms worldwide in cities including Tokyo, New York and Milan and the hiring of five sales executives, who will join an existing staff of 30 at the company.
The house is also preparing to shoot an advertising campaign in December with an unnamed U.S. husband-and-wife duo, Bousquet said.
The family-owned brand had been reduced to a licensing operation since implementing a restructuring plan in 2010 that involved selling its outlet stores and rights to its men’s wear for seven markets, including Turkey, in order to preserve jobs and fund future development.
In addition to its perfume license with L’Oréal, Cacharel has licenses with Christian Bernard for jewelry; Mondottica for sunglasses and eyewear; Plastoria for business gifts, and Hankook for tableware, destined mainly for the Southeast Asian market.
In honor the @CFDA’s announcement of @iamnaomicampbell receiving the Fashion Icon Award at the 2018 #CFDAAwards, which will take place on June 4, here’s a #tbt of the supermodel on @michaelkors’ runway in 1991. #wwdfashion #wwdarchive (📷: George Chinsee)
“I was making the guacamole when my scout saw me,” says model @stuckinteenage on being discovered just six months ago while working at @chipotlemexicangrill. Since then Williams has signed with @dnamodels, walked in her first show at @calvinklein and landed on the cover of @vogueitalia – a high point of any model’s career. To read @lisajlockwood’s full interview with the model on her experiences thus far, head to WWD.com – link in bio. (📷: George Chinsee)
“I love the idea of dialogue, period. It’s where I’ve always gotten my inspiration from: hearing other women speak, their journeys and their paths,” said @hereisgina, who delivered the keynote speech during @sxsw for @createcultivate in partnership with @fossil. For her two panels, Rodriguez chose female empowering, female-led and female entrepreneurs to focus on. Head to WWD.com to read more about her thoughts on Time’s Up, growing up in a family of women and why we “need a girls’ club.” #wwdeye #sxsw (📷: @jgreenery)
Leading luxury brand are shaking things up to keep up with streetwear. Case in point: the arrival of @mrkimjones as artistic director of @diorhomme. Jones, who succeeds @Kris_Van_Assche, is seen as one of the handful of designers who can actually straddle the luxury and streetwear worlds — which could lead to even more changes at established brands. What could this mean for the rest of the menswear landscape? Head to WWD.com to find out what experts predict #wwdfashion (📷: @franckmura)
“It’s like buying groceries. You’re going to buy the best mango, the best mozzarella, the best things. You have to, or others are going to take it all,” said @gabrielahearst on why she uses only the finest fabrics. Last week, Hearst received her first @cfda nomination for Womenswear Designer of the Year, and earlier this month she opened a permanent showroom in Paris. To read @jessiredale’s interview with the designer and find out why this is shaping up to be a big year for her, head to WWD.com. #wwdfashion (📷: @francoisgoize)
“It’s an interesting thing, playing a younger version of your mother. It’s an interesting concept. I adore my mom and love her in every capacity, but it was just something that had never crossed my mind,” says @anniemstarke on playing a young Joan Castleman in “The Wife.” The same role will be played by her mother Glenn Close. Read more about her growing up in the film industry as the daughter of producer John H. Starke and Close and what she has planned for the future #wwdeye (📷: @nataliamantini)
@asics is launching a new streetwear sneaker inspired by its latest ambassador, @steveaoki. The Hyper-Kenzen x Aoki, which will launch at @footlocker stores exclusively tomorrow, is a slip-on style that incorporates the brand’s proprietary Gel technology through beads integrated into the midsole for comfort and endurance. Read the full story on WWD.com.