VERNON, Calif. — Alexandre Caugant is launching two tailored sportswear and denim lines for the fall selling season five months after leaving Blue Holdings, where he embellished jeans' back pockets with a Western flair at Antik Denim and plastered snake skeletons and butterflies on clingy T-shirts at Life & Death.
Caugant hopes his sportswear label, AC Collection, and his denim line, AC Jeans, will appeal to a savvy clientele.
"The fashion now is more sophisticated and stylish," said Caugant, a native of Marseille, France. "The woman now wants to look more dressy."
Wholesaling from $95 to $200, AC Collection includes skinny pants and snug vests made of stretchy sateen, polyurethane pants that feel like crushed velvet and slick biker jackets embossed with a subtle python print. The line is divided into three groups: Tokyo encompasses vinyl, fake leather and crocodile prints on polyurethane; New York emphasizes high-rises, and London offers an assortment of pencil skirts that have a cummerbund waist and two-way stretch denim dotted with metal paillettes on the waistband.
AC Jeans, which wholesales for $75 to $95, is a more pared-down selection of four fits — boot, skinny, a wide leg with a 24-inch leg opening and a trouser with a 26-inch leg opening — along with microshorts and Bermudas. Caugant hopes to differentiate AC Jeans with 10 different treatments, including one that overdyes blue denim in a lilac tint and another that mixes glitter, wax and oil for a sheen resembling a street after a rain shower.
While he hopes to place AC Collection and AC Jeans in specialty shops and high-end retailers, Caugant also aims to appeal to department stores with AC Jeans' variety of washes and fits. He has already inked deals with distributors in England, France, Italy, Spain and Germany, with another in the works for Japan. After making his first shipment of 200 women's styles for both lines in July, he projects combined first-year wholesale sales to hit $3 million to $5 million. Next year, he will collaborate with Julien Chambon, designer of the French line Rock 'N' Luck, to produce T-shirts and hoodies for AC Collection.
The new ventures reflect not only Caugant's growth as a designer but also the changes under way in the premium denim industry. A former designer for Goa and European juniors giant Chevignon, Caugant partnered with Philippe Naouri to design Antik at Commerce, Calif.-based Blue Holdings in 2004. In 2005, Antik opened a flagship on Melrose Avenue and sponsored a risqué fashion show that featured bared breasts and a mechanical bull in Los Angeles. Riding high on Antik, Caugant and Naouri teamed with artist Cynthia Tello to launch Life & Death in August 2006.As part of an effort to boost profits in September, Blue Holdings abandoned Life & Death, shuttered two stores and cut a quarter of its workforce. A month before the restructuring, Caugant had left the company and set up shop outside of Los Angeles with 10 employees in an industrial loft.
Caugant's wife, Julia, oversees operations at the start-up. She said her husband has been ahead of his time, pushing polished looks that didn't fit into the Antik mold. With the new labels, however, "He's going to follow fashion," she said.
Caugant said he is determined to grow his company slowly. Though he financed the start of the company from money he made through selling his Blue Holdings shares, he said he is in talks with a silent investor to buy a third of the company. He also learned from his experience at Blue Holdings to keep production in the U.S. rather than to delegate it to factories in Mexico.
"I want control," Caugant said. "To put your name on the brand is a risk. You put yourself in it."
My character, Dinah Madani, is just the coolest, [most] badass woman imaginable," says @amberroserevah. The actress stars in @marvel's newest series on @netflix, @thepunisher. To prepare for her role, Revah sat down with Homeland agents to get a real sense of with Dinah's day-to-day life is really like. Read our full interview on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
A scene from the 91st annual @macys Thanksgiving Day Parade. The parade, which boasts 50 million TV viewers and 3.5 million on-site spectators, is considered one of the largest and most watched parades in the world. (📷: Jason Szenes/EPA-REX)
The circus came to @bloomingdales 59th Street on Tuesday night and lit up Lexington Avenue with acrobatic dancers, death-defying knife throwing, sword swallowing and aerial acts with no net. The 45 minutes of theatrics built up to unveiling the holiday windows depicting @swarovski crystal-encrusted circus pieces and scenes from “The Greatest Showman” – songs from the soundtrack included. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Joshua Scott)
The psychedelic fashion that pervaded the ’60s is back with an exhibit at the @museumofcityny. “Mode New York: Fashion Takes a Trip” chronicles the changing styles from 1960 through 1973 and features designers such as @ysl, @oscardelarenta and more. The exhibition, which is on display through April 1, is organized into four periods: First Lady Fasion, Youthquake, New Bohemia and New Nonchalance. Pictured here is model Pat Bardonella during the Garvey Day Parade in 1968. (📷: @kwamebphoto) #wwdeye #wwdfashion
“People should be a lot more honest in expressing both the dark and light of themselves. We need to give each other the space to do that because it’s the only way we can grow and evolve,” says @noelwells of her new film “Mr. Roosevelt,” which is largely based on her own struggles. Unexpectedly leaving @nbcsnl in 2014 after just one season, Wells felt set back in her self-esteem and career trajectory. She quickly refocused her energy to more personal projects, which led to the completion of “Mr. Roosevelt.” Read the rest of WWD’s interview with the “Master of None” actress on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
@barbrastreisand is giving fans a chance to see her perform up close in a new concert series, which makes its debut on @Netflix today. From behind-the-scenes takes to her concert performance in Miami last December, the two-hour streaming special captures Streisand in her element. Pictured here is the singer/actress photographed for WWD in 1963. (📷: Palmieri Tony) #wwdeye #wwdarchive
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)