MILAN — Former Cacharel creative director Cédric Charlier has found a new licensee in Italy’s Aeffe SpA.
The Belgian designer’s first collection will bow during Paris Fashion Week on Feb. 28. Aeffe, which produces the Cacharel collection, now designed by Ling Liu and Dawei Sun, is listed on the Milan Stock Exchange, and also manufactures brands including Moschino, Alberta Ferretti and Jean Paul Gaultier. Aeffe will produce and distribute Charlier’s women’s line globally under a five-year licensing agreement.
“I really like his fresh and young style,” Aeffe chairman Massimo Ferretti told WWD on Monday. “It’s in our DNA to promote new designers, from Franco Moschino back in 1983 to Rifat Ozbek in 1987 and Narciso Rodriguez in 1997. We should make room for young designers because they have more sensitive antenna, and if we don’t renew fashion, there are no new stimuli. If the future is made of big names only, fashion is no longer what fashion should be about. Research and the desire to propose something that is not there are the motors of fashion.”
Charlier noted that Aeffe will allow him to present his style “thanks to [the group’s] accomplished distribution and production.” Charlier’s résumé includes stints at Céline under Michael Kors and Jean Paul Knott. He then worked with Alber Elbaz at Lanvin, followed by four seasons as creative director at Cacharel. When he was let go from the French brand, Ferretti went on the record to support the designer’s work.
“It’s clean, essential, with a precise DNA,” Ferretti reiterated. “His style is never too complicated or overwrought, and he’s different from the other designers in our stable.”
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