“After a year, you really start to get under the skin of a brand.”
So says Clare Waight Keller, who is slated to show her third runway collection for Chloé on Monday as the French fashion house marks its 60th anniversary.
Not that her spring collection will be a retrospective exercise.
“Everything should feel very relevant to today,” insists Waight Keller, who joined Chloé in May 2011 after six years at the creative helm of Pringle of Scotland. RELATED STORY: The Chloé Revolution >>
While Waight Keller is the fourth young Englishwoman to helm the design studio in the past dozen years (after Stella McCartney, Phoebe Philo and Hannah MacGibbon), chief executive officer Geoffroy de la Bourdonnaye noted that Waight Keller is one of the few designers at Chloé to have prior experience as a creative director for a global brand.
“Clare is extremely smart and very mature in her approach,” de la Bourdonnaye said. “Her collections are elevating the standards for Chloé.”
At Pringle, Waight Keller oversaw women’s and men’s collections plus all aspects of brand image, including shop design, packaging and advertising.
Before that, she was a senior women’s wear designer at Gucci under Tom Ford, and earlier, was design director for Ralph Lauren’s Purple Label men’s line. Her first job was as a women’s wear designer for Calvin Klein.
An affable, down-to-earth mother of three, Waight Keller said she relates strongly to Chloé’s heritage.“[The brand] doesn’t take itself too seriously,” she said. “It caters to a real woman with more of a daytime wardrobe.…I love the fact that it feels very real.”
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast